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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,163 total, 25/month
Shared By: Allan Sieja on Jun 13, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Good fun climb with a small roof section on p2. Third pitch is kind of run out with very little for placements. Bolts on third pitch are far to the left near a cactus, this is also the first set of bolts for the rap down.

Location

To the right of Cake Walk. Hike up behind and slightly left of mushroom boulder. This route starts at the base of a heap of rocks that make a series of cracks.

Protection

Take small to medium cams and stoppers. There are bolts at the belay stations and rap rings to the left of the line.
Chad N
Three Rivers, CA
 
Chad N   Three Rivers, CA
 
P1 & P2 can be linked into 1 great pitch w/ a 70m. Feb 4, 2014
Gilroy
Boulderado
Gilroy   Boulderado
Rapelling the route is common but don't rap down P1 line, Go to climbers left a good bit. Good chance of getting your rope stuck otherwise. Apr 25, 2011
Tom Willard
Avon, CO
  5.8 PG13
Tom Willard   Avon, CO
  5.8 PG13
I climbed this route a couple of weeks ago and thought it was a nice change from bouldering everyday. The rock on the third pitch is questionable, but the first two pitches are clean. The bottom crack pitch was good fun and well protected, but the second pitch seemed a little bold for a 5.7? Getting to the second pitch bolt required threading small nuts into some cracks in the huecos; it seemed more like mental protection... exciting. I would recommend this climb. Dec 1, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.7+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.7+
The second pitch is good and actually has pro. There are a couple of bolts, some big holds and you can stuff some cams in the arching roof area, maybe up to 3" cams. Oct 17, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.7+
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.7+
P1 is has loose blocks and large cracks. Bring stoppers and cams to 3+" if you want to protect. Belay ontop of large pillar at 2 bolt anchor.

P2 is fun climbing and should stop there. Like it's neighbor to the left (Hueco Syndrome) going all the way to the summit just to walk off is a waste. Rap from the top of p2.

~Susan Oct 17, 2007