Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,426 total · 18/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Apr 21, 2008
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Reach high for a jug (may be a difficult start for the shorter folks), and trend up and right to the first bolt about 15 feet up. Continue up through the bolts. The bolt spacing is enough to make you think, but not terrible for someone who is solid at the grade. Fairly well protected for Hueco standards. Excellent climbing will eventually bring you to a point where there is a crack and no more bolts. The options here are a few medium to larger sized nuts, some small cams, or running it out.

The guidebook notes that this route is 105 feet. This is clearly not true as the mid mark of our rope was a good 15-20 feet up. Two ropes are required for the rappel.

Location Suggest change

Find the arete that is Malice In Bucketland, and head left about 30 feet or so. Right of Bitchin Chimney.

Protection Suggest change

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor. I also used two green Camalots (could just as easily use one green 0.75 and one purple 0.5) and one medium nut on the top crack.

Photos

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