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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Busted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Purple Microdot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,082 total · 16/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Apr 21, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Reach high for a jug (may be a difficult start for the shorter folks), and trend up and right to the first bolt about 15 feet up. Continue up through the bolts. The bolt spacing is enough to make you think, but not terrible for someone who is solid at the grade. Fairly well protected for Hueco standards. Excellent climbing will eventually bring you to a point where there is a crack and no more bolts. The options here are a few medium to larger sized nuts, some small cams, or running it out.

The guidebook notes that this route is 105 feet. This is clearly not true as the mid mark of our rope was a good 15-20 feet up. Two ropes are required for the rappel.

Location

Find the arete that is Malice In Bucketland, and head left about 30 feet or so. Right of Bitchin Chimney.

Protection

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor. I also used two green Camalots (could just as easily use one green 0.75 and one purple 0.5) and one medium nut on the top crack.

Photos

boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.9
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Alice In Bucketland does climb the face 30' left of Malice in Bucketland but begins from the ground and around the corner from Malice. Apr 6, 2010
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10-
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10-
The bolt anchor at the top of this route really needs another set of screw links or rap rings on the existing screw links. Currently they lay flat (parallel) to the rock so pulling your rope through them results in nasty coiling of the rope. Mar 25, 2012
Lyn
Boulder, CO
Lyn   Boulder, CO
The top anchor is very hard to spot- you will be 50+' from the last bolt over easy climbing. Aim for the tree and the bolts are on wall to left of tree. There are plenty of places in this top section to place cams or nuts and also places in harder climbing below where a small cam (alien) or nut would be useful. Apr 6, 2013
Matt Black
Davenport, IA
 
Matt Black   Davenport, IA
 
I lead this climb today. It was very fun and the bolts were spaced apart just enough to get a thrill out of it. You do not need trad gear or slings. Bolted all the way up to a section of 5.6 climbing in which the bolts stop. You climb on this easy climbing quite a ways until you find the anchors up on a wall next to a tree. Nothing was chossy. Sep 7, 2013
Scott Barnes
El Paso, TX
 
Scott Barnes   El Paso, TX
 
We continued up via Busted. It's a pretty natural continuation of the route, going straight up a crack, then buttress to the top. Solid ledge at the top which shares the top for cakewalk. There are rap chains on a boulder to climbers left as you top out. We went straight down these chains with a 70m rope and stopped midway at the original top of Alice in Bananaland (chains next to a bunch of trees). Second rap through bitchin chimney. Rope almost got stuck when we pulled it, so watch out for that. . Also a 70m rope just barely reaches the ground from the chains at top of alice in bananaland, so watch out. Aug 6, 2018

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