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Alice in Banana Land
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 34
votes
Routes in Central Wall
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Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Busted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Fred’s Toprope S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hueco Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lunar Abstract T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Purple Microdot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sea of Holes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Unknown Face T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walking on the Moon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,560 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Anthony Stout on Apr 21, 2008 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars |
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Description
Reach high for a jug (may be a difficult start for the shorter folks), and trend up and right to the first bolt about 15 feet up. Continue up through the bolts. The bolt spacing is enough to make you think, but not terrible for someone who is solid at the grade. Fairly well protected for Hueco standards. Excellent climbing will eventually bring you to a point where there is a crack and no more bolts. The options here are a few medium to larger sized nuts, some small cams, or running it out.
The guidebook notes that this route is 105 feet. This is clearly not true as the mid mark of our rope was a good 15-20 feet up. Two ropes are required for the rappel.
The guidebook notes that this route is 105 feet. This is clearly not true as the mid mark of our rope was a good 15-20 feet up. Two ropes are required for the rappel.
Location
Find the arete that is Malice In Bucketland, and head left about 30 feet or so. Right of Bitchin Chimney.
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