Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Mike Head, Dave Dyess, 1986.|
|Page Views:||2,222 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009|
|Admins:||Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff|
To begin, climb either Divine Wind / All the Nasties up to the two bolts on "Urinal Ledge".
Brain Dead is the second pitch and starts off the right side of the belay. Follow a line of nine bolts up the center of a steep, perfect, slab of iron-rock.
After 50+ meters, the pitch ends on a big ledge with no easy anchor. We did it with a 50 meter rope and barely had enough rope to sit way back on the anchor-less belay ledge. I remember dusting off a nub on the ledge to sling like a horn and using a fat rope and hip belay for bringing up my second safely.
The final pitch is a 100 foot exit crack, maybe 5.5, from the big anchor-less ledge to the summit.
For the anchor-less ledge atop pitch two, I would bring a 70 meter rope and maybe some hand sized-plus cams to get a better belay anchor. My recollection is that you'll have to climb up the crack a bit to find any placements worth using and they won't be enough for an ATC Guide-on-the-anchor setup. Just gotta sit tight and hope your partner doesn't out-weigh you by much.
On the FA this pitch was done with two bolts and one TCU.
Four stars for a route with a funky belay ledge? Oh Yeah!