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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mike Head, Dave Dyess, 1986.
Page Views: 1,336 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

If you've been loving those iron-rock in-cuts on the boulders, then this might be the pitch for you. Laurel Lacher, in Rock & Ice #36, called this pitch: "...one of the most tenuous 5.10+'s at Hueco."

To begin, climb either Divine Wind / All the Nasties up to the two bolts on "Urinal Ledge".

Brain Dead is the second pitch and starts off the right side of the belay. Follow a line of nine bolts up the center of a steep, perfect, slab of iron-rock.

After 50+ meters, the pitch ends on a big ledge with no easy anchor. We did it with a 50 meter rope and barely had enough rope to sit way back on the anchor-less belay ledge. I remember dusting off a nub on the ledge to sling like a horn and using a fat rope and hip belay for bringing up my second safely.

The final pitch is a 100 foot exit crack, maybe 5.5, from the big anchor-less ledge to the summit.

Location

Divine Wind / All the Nasties begins from a nice belay zone, at the base of the Main Wall, between Split & Malice Boulders. Divine Wind starts from the top of the Malice Boulder. Nice sun atop the boulder, but many people like leave packs below the boulder and wear climbing shoes for getting onto the boulder.

Protection

Mostly quick-draws. Maybe some steel nuts and more likely small aliens for isolated back-ups on both Brain Dead and All the Naties.

For the anchor-less ledge atop pitch two, I would bring a 70 meter rope and maybe some hand sized-plus cams to get a better belay anchor. My recollection is that you'll have to climb up the crack a bit to find any placements worth using and they won't be enough for an ATC Guide-on-the-anchor setup. Just gotta sit tight and hope your partner doesn't out-weigh you by much.

On the FA this pitch was done with two bolts and one TCU.

Four stars for a route with a funky belay ledge? Oh Yeah!

Photos

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Chad N
Three Rivers, CA
 
Chad N   Three Rivers, CA
 
So much thin edge climbing all over this wall I may have been off route a bit a couple of times because I thought the bolts were poorly placed and it took a bit of traversing around to make clips. Good, sustained face climbing though. Not like the hueco jug hauls like malice or alice. Loose rock at the top. Hand size cams will build a good belay and we soloed up a right side short 5.6 crack to gain the top. Start on All the Nasties(the thin crack will protect w/ a small nut or green c3). Feb 4, 2014