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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Mike Head, Dave Head
Page Views: 4,880 total · 39/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Oct 16, 2007 with updates
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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31 Opinions

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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Pretty good intro to the Hueco roped routes. Right off the Malice Boulder, jungle gym your way up big deep huecos to the first bolt (about 25' up), then move left and up the rounded arete past seven more bolts, working huecos and good edges. Head up and right at the last bolt to get to the two bolt anchor. There are some pretty good stretches between bolts on this route, so climb carefully!

Location

The route launches off the Malice Boulder, found on a narrow buttress sandwiched between two large chimneys just right of the Cakewalk section of North Mountain.

Protection

8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. You can slingshot this route with a 70m rope, but NOT with a 60m! Bring two ropes if you have 60m!

Photos

A classic, but the bolts and hangers are getting quite old and should be replaced. Mar 1, 2013
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
  5.9-
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
  5.9-
Mike Head originally led this on sketchy natural gear in 1983. Dave Head added two bolts in 1985. Mike Head did the phase II work about 1989 (Rock $ Ice #36).

I bought a 200m Bluewater and cut it in half. Using my 100m rope makes lowering off everything on the Front Side sweet!

There are no double bolt anchors at the top. This is because the supervising ranger wanted to prevent sport rappelling and associated hanger theft. Now, with day user limits and passes, summit anchors should not be a problem. In fact, rappelling routes would make us easier to be monitored and lessen traffic around the sensitive water holes on top. Something to consider if a phase four, bolt replacement, ever happens. Feb 11, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
This is the first route I'd ever done at HT & what a treat! Nice introduction to the area and what to expect in the climbing. Bolted line is actually 7 bolts w/2 bolt anchor. Not 8 like the guide and MP indicate.

The last bolt didn't create any sort of rope drag but I noted in my book to bring a long quick-draw for the last clip as it is a bit left of the anchors.

~Susan Oct 17, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9-
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9-
Classic hueco pulling on good rock and maybe the best route in Hueco for the grade. If for some reason you are rapping to clean the draws, be careful as the route is well left of the anchors and you will be looking at a good swinger into Paul Bunyons Chimney if you botch the rap. Oct 16, 2007