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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,738 total, 13/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Aug 15, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Two short pitches (could be combined?). the first is 5.8+ up moderate huecos. The second tackles a short corner and some face climbing.

Location

Starts left of Uriah's Heap, a pillar of rock leaning against the buttress left of Sea of Holes.

Protection

1st pitch: 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
2nd pitch: 5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.
A single two-rope rappel for descent, or climb a short pitch to the summit.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10
1st pitch is pseudo slick and a cool move or two before reaching the anchors. 2nd pitch a bit easier and just as nice. Don't skimp by just doing the first pitch.

Unless you just LOVE walking off from the summit then rap from the top of the 2nd pitch. The last bit of climbing doesn't warrant the efforts to walk off the crag.

~Susan Oct 17, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a
Cool moves on both pitches. The rock on the first pitch is fairly slick and the huecos aren't as good as they look from the ground. First pitch is probably 10a. Second pitch has some more cool moves getting into the dihedral and is a bit easier than the first pitch. Maybe 5.9. You can do the second pitch and continue all the way to the summit with a 70m rope, combining pitches 2 and 3. Pitch 3 has no pro, but is maybe 5.5. Supplemental pro is not needed on pitch 2 as the bolts protect it adequately. Oct 16, 2007
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a/b
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10a/b
I have climbed pitch one more than ten times. 8+ is fair for pitch one. Not strenuous but requires finding all the right moves. Crux down low. Some moves are awesome. Pitch two is 10a/b since I lead it. If it were c/d I wouldn't have lead it. Two cams supplement bolts if you want. Excellent pitch. Easier than Window Pain. Nov 5, 2006
Aaron Hobson
Clinton, TN
 
Aaron Hobson   Clinton, TN  
 
The old D. Jackson guide rates this as a 5.10-. I felt it to be much more challenging than the neighboring Sea of Holes, even with the added security of more bolts. Aug 15, 2006