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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Todd Skinner, Paul Piana
Page Views: 694 total, 6/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

One of the shorter pitches on the Front Side. Barely overhung, but with fun moves. Lunar Abstract even gets a little sun, unusual for Hueco 5.12's.

The pitch begins with barn door lie-backing up a left facing, left leaning, small flake-corner. Hard to see the gear placements on the way to the first bolt. Three bolts protect face climbing on ivory-like rock. End at a double bolt anchor, about 70 feet up.

Location

Hike in to the Main Wall as if approaching Window Pain. Start from the same belay zone as Lunacy, the big crack/corner. Lunar Abstract starts on the right wall of Lunacy.

Protection

Some steel nuts and the smallest cams help getting to the first bolt. Then it becomes a sport pitch. Another option is to do either Lunatic Friends or Lunacy to the anchor at 50 meters, then set up a top rope from the Lunar Abstract anchor, passed on the way down.

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