Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Todd Skinner, Paul Piana
Page Views: 1,388 total · 9/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

One of the shorter pitches on the Front Side. Barely overhung, but with fun moves. Lunar Abstract even gets a little sun, unusual for Hueco 5.12's.

The pitch begins with barn door lie-backing up a left facing, left leaning, small flake-corner. Hard to see the gear placements on the way to the first bolt. Three bolts protect face climbing on ivory-like rock. End at a double bolt anchor, about 70 feet up.

Location

Hike in to the Main Wall as if approaching Window Pain. Start from the same belay zone as Lunacy, the big crack/corner. Lunar Abstract starts on the right wall of Lunacy.

Protection

Some steel nuts and the smallest cams help getting to the first bolt. Then it becomes a sport pitch. Another option is to do either Lunatic Friends or Lunacy to the anchor at 50 meters, then set up a top rope from the Lunar Abstract anchor, passed on the way down.

Photos

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