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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 116 total, 1/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Oct 16, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Described as "hair raising" in the guide, this runout route fits the bill. Very fun bouldery start directly in front of juniper tree using large huecos. Climb up 10' to first bolt then follow features up another 10' or so to a second bolt.

Wander up and left using the path of least resistance for 80 feet until you reach a small vertical crack that takes marginal small to medium nuts for protection.

Travel another 15' up and right to a 3rd bolt directly left of a flake with huecos that can be slung if you don't see the bolt or like a little added protection. Cross over the flake by traversing up & right 8' where you will find the 4th and final bolt before running it for the anchors.

Bolted anchors allows for easy rappel (1 84m or 2 50m+ ropes required)

Location

Right of the split boulder is a very large and mature juniper tree which is close to the rock. The route starts directly in front of the tree on steep rock with large huecos.

Protection

4 bolts, small wires, long slings to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+ R
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+ R
This route is really good and really not that scary... unless a hold breaks and then you will probably die. Very moderate climbing links the available pro features. The thin crack at 100ft up will take something like a #3 RP (I was told it was total crap by the follower) and a pretty good medium sized stopper, which I did not think was all that good. Oh well... it only needs to protect you for about 15 feet, and then you clip a fairly modern bolt. Casual after this to the anchor. Oct 17, 2007