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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 528 total, 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on May 4, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Why would anyone jump onto this squeeze chimney route while surrounded by quality sport and trad lines and even higher quality bouldering? The Sherman Guide for Hueco tanks (2nd edition) states "... it has only been climbed once by a skinny and lanky person who said it was tight.", so you'll probably feel like the second person ever to climb this route. I sure did. Not being an avid wide-crack or chimney climber, I was intimidated by tackling the route. Nothing about it looks all that difficult, but you may as well forget about protection. Much to my surprise and enjoyment, I realized that for squeeze chimneys such as this one, protection isn't required for making you feel secure. Of course, I'm also a fairly skinny person... If you're here and up for it, jump on this route for a secure-feeling, but mostly solo squeeze climb.

Location

The large chimney in between Banana Patch and Alice in Banana Land.

Protection

A really big bro? The first chock-stone you can sling is 40ft up, followed by a large chock-stone you can stand on and then another 20-30 ft to reach some protectable cracks. Despite this you may not feel like slinging the first chock-stone as it is fairly awkward to reach, and once you're on top of the second chock-stone the squeeze is over, the climbing eases up and you'll probably continue on without slinging it either.

The top of the first pitch shares an anchor with Alice in Banana Land.

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