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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 946 total, 7/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Aug 15, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

the first pitch is fairly bold, with scant bolts and some loose rock. Climb past the first bolt (~25ft high) to a thin crack which can be protected with small wires. Then head right past 2 bolts before heading left underneath a small bulge to the last bolt. Belay on a nice ledge with a solid two-bolt anchor (100' to ground).

Pitch 2 is easier, has better rock and excellent protection. Gear required for the belay at a huge ledge. A short 3rd pitch up cracks leads to the top.

Location

Starts just behind the Split boulder. Walk-off to the north or find rap-anchors for another route.

Protection

1st pitch, 4 bolts and a few small wires in the shallow cack. 2nd pitch requires wires and small camming units, but is well protected.

Photos

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Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9+ PG13
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9+ PG13
First pitch is a test piece of thin edge climbing. I have climbed the first pitch more than ten times but never will lead it. A little risky for me. Excellent. It takes a little route finding to keep pitch one to 5.9+. The second pitch is more 8+. One bolt up high and one right off the belay ledge. Many good trad placements but some hard to see. A 60m rope lets you finish way up on belay ledge so you can start the third pitch easier. A 50m rope means you must move belay for pitch three. The third pitch is a choice of two nice cracks that go at 5.7. Third pitch is 80 feet. Nov 5, 2006