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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Busted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Purple Microdot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 165 ft, Grade II
FA: Mike Head?
Page Views: 661 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

This is a nice crack for those who want to practice carrying a big rack. It looks like a 100 foot offwidth but is really a stemming corner with a big crack for pro. After the wide section, the crack decreases in size to fingers. Above the finger crack is a ledge with two bolts. Outstanding pitch!

From the end of pitch one it is possible to do a 60 meter rappel. (two 60 meter ropes)

Pitch two is a wide crack through a roof, above which more squeezing leads to the summit.

Location

The wide crack right of Window Pain and No Fear of Flying.

Protection

Bring at least on #6 Camalot or friend to "walk" along as you stem. And a finger to fist sized rack of cams. Enough rope for a 60 meter rappel too, unless your topping out.

It may be possible to use the anchor of Lunar Abstract to get down with one rope. I have not tested this yet.

Photos

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Jonathan Petsch
Chattanooga, TN
Jonathan Petsch   Chattanooga, TN
165200 feet? Dang. Nov 28, 2009
Khel  
FA Mike Head 1979. No cams of course, just one rattly #11 Hexcentric. Would have been a crippler of a ground fall. Jan 20, 2012

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