Type: Trad, 165 ft, Grade II
FA: Mike Head?
Page Views: 692 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Feb 9, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

This is a nice crack for those who want to practice carrying a big rack. It looks like a 100 foot offwidth but is really a stemming corner with a big crack for pro. After the wide section, the crack decreases in size to fingers. Above the finger crack is a ledge with two bolts. Outstanding pitch!

From the end of pitch one it is possible to do a 60 meter rappel. (two 60 meter ropes)

Pitch two is a wide crack through a roof, above which more squeezing leads to the summit.

Location

The wide crack right of Window Pain and No Fear of Flying.

Protection

Bring at least on #6 Camalot or friend to "walk" along as you stem. And a finger to fist sized rack of cams. Enough rope for a 60 meter rappel too, unless your topping out.

It may be possible to use the anchor of Lunar Abstract to get down with one rope. I have not tested this yet.

Photos

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Jonathan Petsch
Chattanooga, TN
Jonathan Petsch   Chattanooga, TN
165200 feet? Dang. Nov 28, 2009
Khel  
FA Mike Head 1979. No cams of course, just one rattly #11 Hexcentric. Would have been a crippler of a ground fall. Jan 20, 2012