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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Busted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Purple Microdot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft
FA: Todd Skinner '88
Page Views: 1,251 total · 11/month
Shared By: Hank Caylor on Feb 11, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This amazing route has 2 distinct cruxes at 1/3 and 2/3 height. Expect alot of arm-melting runouts on large huecos with the crux being small crimps and shallow dishes. I call this a sport/trad route as it's about 50/50 between bolts and weird large cams. Not a recommended lead if you have to project at the grade, but well worth it if you're solid.

Location [Suggest Change]

Around the corner to the right of Malice in Bucketland in the crevice and on the same formation. A very obvious hueco line with bolts. As soon as you start drooling, you're there.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Kinda freaky gear due to the strict bolting policy. 6 or 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Expect long runouts between bolts with supplemental Big Bros or Large Cams in a wide variety of sized huecos to backup the sparse bolting.

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