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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft
FA: Todd Skinner '88
Page Views: 1,233 total · 11/month
Shared By: Hank Caylor on Feb 11, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Some areas require a guide. Details


This amazing route has 2 distinct cruxes at 1/3 and 2/3 height. Expect alot of arm-melting runouts on large huecos with the crux being small crimps and shallow dishes. I call this a sport/trad route as it's about 50/50 between bolts and weird large cams. Not a recommended lead if you have to project at the grade, but well worth it if you're solid.


Around the corner to the right of Malice in Bucketland in the crevice and on the same formation. A very obvious hueco line with bolts. As soon as you start drooling, you're there.


Kinda freaky gear due to the strict bolting policy. 6 or 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Expect long runouts between bolts with supplemental Big Bros or Large Cams in a wide variety of sized huecos to backup the sparse bolting.


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