Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft
FA: Todd Skinner '88
Page Views: 1,315 total · 11/month
Shared By: Hank Caylor on Feb 11, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

This amazing route has 2 distinct cruxes at 1/3 and 2/3 height. Expect alot of arm-melting runouts on large huecos with the crux being small crimps and shallow dishes. I call this a sport/trad route as it's about 50/50 between bolts and weird large cams. Not a recommended lead if you have to project at the grade, but well worth it if you're solid.

Location

Around the corner to the right of Malice in Bucketland in the crevice and on the same formation. A very obvious hueco line with bolts. As soon as you start drooling, you're there.

Protection

Kinda freaky gear due to the strict bolting policy. 6 or 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Expect long runouts between bolts with supplemental Big Bros or Large Cams in a wide variety of sized huecos to backup the sparse bolting.

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