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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 775 total, 6/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on May 14, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

A clean line following a thin crack. It starts up a thin seam for about 15 ft. The crux is traversing 10 ft to the right to reach the bottom of another thin finger crack. It is mostly a mental crux, requiring good composure as you face a near groundfall. A few moves up the finger crack and the climbing becomes easier although still steep. Big huecos to either side of the crack provide rest holds and gear-placement stances. The crack ends by petering out next to a huge chimney. A very exposed move bridges the chimney at an obvious weakness, and traverses right for a few feet before climbing up to a ledge/bush and a bolted anchor.

An alternate start (also 5.10) is to climb the face 4 ft to the left of the chimney to a bolt 15 ft off the ground, and then make a few moves to the left to reach the upper thin crack.

Some delicate climbing involved, fun exposed moves, and good gear makes this route a worthy tick.

Location

Located on the cakewalk buttress to the left of a large chimney (Bitchin Chimney). Two-rope rappel from anchor, or finish up another route and walk-off.

Protection

Small wires and cams. A large wire or tricam can protect the exposed chimney move. Use long slings on gear near the chimney.

Photos

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Chad Namolik
Three Rivers, CA
 
Chad Namolik   Three Rivers, CA
 
The thin crack climbs like a face since it isn't deep enough to jam in. A lot of face, lie-back and gaston will get you up to the step across move which is easy for a tall person. The thin gear is good. blue and yellow metolius cams. I placed an orange one for the step across move. Feb 4, 2014