Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
Routes in Central Wall
|Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13|
|Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft|
|Page Views:||775 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Hobson on May 14, 2007|
|Admins:||Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff|
Some areas require a guide. Details
DescriptionA clean line following a thin crack. It starts up a thin seam for about 15 ft. The crux is traversing 10 ft to the right to reach the bottom of another thin finger crack. It is mostly a mental crux, requiring good composure as you face a near groundfall. A few moves up the finger crack and the climbing becomes easier although still steep. Big huecos to either side of the crack provide rest holds and gear-placement stances. The crack ends by petering out next to a huge chimney. A very exposed move bridges the chimney at an obvious weakness, and traverses right for a few feet before climbing up to a ledge/bush and a bolted anchor.
An alternate start (also 5.10) is to climb the face 4 ft to the left of the chimney to a bolt 15 ft off the ground, and then make a few moves to the left to reach the upper thin crack.
Some delicate climbing involved, fun exposed moves, and good gear makes this route a worthy tick.
LocationLocated on the cakewalk buttress to the left of a large chimney (Bitchin Chimney). Two-rope rappel from anchor, or finish up another route and walk-off.
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