Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 864 total · 6/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on May 14, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

A clean line following a thin crack. It starts up a thin seam for about 15 ft. The crux is traversing 10 ft to the right to reach the bottom of another thin finger crack. It is mostly a mental crux, requiring good composure as you face a near groundfall. A few moves up the finger crack and the climbing becomes easier although still steep. Big huecos to either side of the crack provide rest holds and gear-placement stances. The crack ends by petering out next to a huge chimney. A very exposed move bridges the chimney at an obvious weakness, and traverses right for a few feet before climbing up to a ledge/bush and a bolted anchor.

An alternate start (also 5.10) is to climb the face 4 ft to the left of the chimney to a bolt 15 ft off the ground, and then make a few moves to the left to reach the upper thin crack.

Some delicate climbing involved, fun exposed moves, and good gear makes this route a worthy tick.

Location

Located on the cakewalk buttress to the left of a large chimney (Bitchin Chimney). Two-rope rappel from anchor, or finish up another route and walk-off.

Protection

Small wires and cams. A large wire or tricam can protect the exposed chimney move. Use long slings on gear near the chimney.

Photos

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Chad N
Central California
 
Chad N   Central California
 
The thin crack climbs like a face since it isn't deep enough to jam in. A lot of face, lie-back and gaston will get you up to the step across move which is easy for a tall person. The thin gear is good. blue and yellow metolius cams. I placed an orange one for the step across move. Feb 4, 2014