Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft|
|Page Views:||795 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Hobson on May 14, 2007|
|Admins:||Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff|
Some areas require a guide. Details
DescriptionA clean line following a thin crack. It starts up a thin seam for about 15 ft. The crux is traversing 10 ft to the right to reach the bottom of another thin finger crack. It is mostly a mental crux, requiring good composure as you face a near groundfall. A few moves up the finger crack and the climbing becomes easier although still steep. Big huecos to either side of the crack provide rest holds and gear-placement stances. The crack ends by petering out next to a huge chimney. A very exposed move bridges the chimney at an obvious weakness, and traverses right for a few feet before climbing up to a ledge/bush and a bolted anchor.
An alternate start (also 5.10) is to climb the face 4 ft to the left of the chimney to a bolt 15 ft off the ground, and then make a few moves to the left to reach the upper thin crack.
Some delicate climbing involved, fun exposed moves, and good gear makes this route a worthy tick.
LocationLocated on the cakewalk buttress to the left of a large chimney (Bitchin Chimney). Two-rope rappel from anchor, or finish up another route and walk-off.
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