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Routes in Central Wall
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Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Busted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Fred’s Toprope S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hueco Syndrome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lunar Abstract T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Purple Microdot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Sea of Holes S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Unknown Face T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walking on the Moon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Head |
| Page Views: | 889 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Ross Swanson on Apr 22, 2018 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars |
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Description
My friend George Bracksieck told me Mike Head described this route to him over the phone when Heuco Tanks was still a "secret" climbing area. This description is the variation 1st pitch of Purple Microdot. Find the middle crack with a hole near the bottom.
Start from below the crack and place a fat nut in the slot below the hole. Return to the ground and start the climb on the right face traversing left into the crack, stepping on the nut you placed. Climb the varying width crack till the right "hands" crack joins, some 25m. Move out onto the right face (Begin R section), girth hitch a dubious hole before clipping the bolt. Move up then traverse back left toward the incipient crack in right facing corner. With the slot over your head move up to place the #4 and exit left to two bolt anchor.
P2 Follow the arching right facing roof around corner then climb corner to the top (hope to add details at a later date if I'm not to old to lead it again.
The right crack is very nice & is an easier lead, it can be TR.
From P1 60m does NOT make it to the ground, for the decent, don't know if a 70m will make it?
Start from below the crack and place a fat nut in the slot below the hole. Return to the ground and start the climb on the right face traversing left into the crack, stepping on the nut you placed. Climb the varying width crack till the right "hands" crack joins, some 25m. Move out onto the right face (Begin R section), girth hitch a dubious hole before clipping the bolt. Move up then traverse back left toward the incipient crack in right facing corner. With the slot over your head move up to place the #4 and exit left to two bolt anchor.
P2 Follow the arching right facing roof around corner then climb corner to the top (hope to add details at a later date if I'm not to old to lead it again.
The right crack is very nice & is an easier lead, it can be TR.
From P1 60m does NOT make it to the ground, for the decent, don't know if a 70m will make it?
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