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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Busted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Purple Microdot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Head
Page Views: 26 total · 23/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Apr 22, 2018
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description [Edit]

My friend George Bracksieck told me Mike Head described this route to him over the phone when Heuco Tanks was still a "secret" climbing area. This description is the variation 1st pitch of Purple Microdot. Find the middle crack with a hole near the bottom.

Start from below the crack and place a fat nut in the slot below the hole. Return to the ground and start the climb on the right face traversing left into the crack, stepping on the nut you placed. Climb the varying width crack till the right "hands" crack joins, some 25m. Move out onto the right face (Begin R section), girth hitch a dubious hole before clipping the bolt. Move up then traverse back left toward the incipient crack in right facing corner. With the slot over your head move up to place the #4 and exit left to two bolt anchor.

P2 Follow the arching right facing roof around corner then climb corner to the top (hope to add details at a later date if I'm not to old to lead it again.

The right crack is very nice & is an easier lead, it can be TR.

From P1 60m does NOT make it to the ground, for the decent, don't know if a 70m will make it?

Location [Edit]

About 500' to the left of Uriah's Heap, and about 500' or more, to the right of Cakewalk. Find the inside right facing corner with a very hard looking right leaning crack on the left, a long middle crack, and the "hands" crack on the right.

This description is of the middle crack.

Protection [Edit]

SR + extra small & medium gear and #4.5 and two #3 and maybe a #4 for the exit move of P1. and some RP's

Photos

The route that Ross describes is the "10- variation" of Purple Microdot. PM begins with the right-most crack, which is much easier. Above the convergence, the crux and the runouts (below and above the single bolt) are found. We rapped with two ropes. Apr 24, 2018

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