Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Mike Head
Page Views: 848 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Apr 22, 2018
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell

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Description Suggest change

My friend George Bracksieck told me Mike Head described this route to him over the phone when Heuco Tanks was still a "secret" climbing area. This description is the variation 1st pitch of Purple Microdot. Find the middle crack with a hole near the bottom.

Start from below the crack and place a fat nut in the slot below the hole. Return to the ground and start the climb on the right face traversing left into the crack, stepping on the nut you placed. Climb the varying width crack till the right "hands" crack joins, some 25m. Move out onto the right face (Begin R section), girth hitch a dubious hole before clipping the bolt. Move up then traverse back left toward the incipient crack in right facing corner. With the slot over your head move up to place the #4 and exit left to two bolt anchor.

P2 Follow the arching right facing roof around corner then climb corner to the top (hope to add details at a later date if I'm not to old to lead it again.

The right crack is very nice & is an easier lead, it can be TR.

From P1 60m does NOT make it to the ground, for the decent, don't know if a 70m will make it?

Location Suggest change

About 500' to the left of Uriah's Heap, and about 500' or more, to the right of Cakewalk. Find the inside right facing corner with a very hard looking right leaning crack on the left, a long middle crack, and the "hands" crack on the right.

This description is of the middle crack.

Protection Suggest change

SR + extra small & medium gear and #4.5 and two #3 and maybe a #4 for the exit move of P1. and some RP's