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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,152 total, 42/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Oct 16, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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22 Opinions

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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

The line follows clean and well featured rock with the bolt line easily seen from the ground.

3 or 4 bolts and 35' up you will encounter a roof where there is a bolt hidden above. Continue on steep rock up and right to 2 bolt anchor & rappel.

More tightly bolted than neighboring routes it provides some welcomed comfort as the rock is steep and sustained.

Excellent climbing and a must do for any Hueco Tanks visit.

Location

Located right 15' of the large juniper tree and just left of Lunacy the obvious wide left facing dihedral.

Protection

11 bolts to 2 bolt off-set anchor

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
This is a nice rig! Plenty of bolts, a few thinking moves, and mild pump will follow you to the anchors. This route starts about 15ft to the right of Final Stone, the shallow right facing dihedral just to the left. The guide describes Window Pain as starting on the ramp to the left of Lunacy, but in reality, it does not start on the ramp at all. It follows the obvious line of bolts starting in the vertical brown rock with the nice huecos that leads to a small roof about 30ft up. Oct 17, 2007