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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Busted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Purple Microdot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,787 total · 13/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Oct 16, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

From the top of the Malice Boulder, this route is located on the shoulder immediately to the right of Paul Bunyon Chimney.

P1 Climb well featured rock as you angle up and right towards Urinal Ledge to 2 bolt anchor.

P2 First bolt off of Urinal Ledge is to the left and up about 6 feet. Follow featured rock up to the headwall, wandering right past a rusted 1/4" bolt, and then continue without gear to a large ledge at the base of a few short cracks. You can traverse further right on this pitch and start clipping the bolts of Brain Dead/All The Nasties, or move left off the belay and pick up some mystery bolts that randomly appear.

P3 is 18' of 2" hand crack to reach summit via 5.5 climbing. Use gear and natural features to set anchor.

Walk off to climbers left towards Laguna Prieta. Be sure to scramble down to a break in the wall before reaching the lagoon. Continue back across toward the Front Side and Lunch Rocks.

Note: Descent can take as long as 20 minutes even if you know where you are going.

Location

Divine Wind by the guidebooks description may not exist. This route (Divine Wind II?) starts outside of the chimney on the shoulder of the formation. I did not see any bolts or routes that were starting up inside the chimney.

Protection

Pitch 1 - 4 bolts plus 2 bolt anchor @ Urinal Ledge.

Pitch 2 - 2 bolts, one right off the belay, the other higher up, small, and rusted.

Pitch 3 - short and easy 2" handcrack to summit.

Make your own anchor using 1" cams and/or slung features.
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.8+ R
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.8+ R
This is a pretty good route if you like being off route and way way runout. It appears we went directly between All the Nasties and Brain Dead on the second pitch. I would suggest trying to pickup either of those bolts lines and following them instead of the one rusted bolt option I used. The climbing is pretty good though. Oct 17, 2007
The first pitch up to the two-bolt anchor is reasonably protected with decent-looking Petzl bolts and is about 5.7. You can toprope the first pitch of All the Nasties (5.9 with well-spaced protection) from this anchor if desired. Mar 1, 2013
J B
 
J B  
 
The second pitch is a fun and easy climb. First bolt is to the left of the anchor, the second bolt is about half way up when you get to the short headwall. This pitch is easily protected with small cams and nuts, with an abundance of small pockets, seams and flakes. Feels much easier than a 5.8 rating. Jan 1, 2014
Steven Reneau  
5.9
Crux is getting past the 1st 2 bolts on p1. Apr 9, 2018

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