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Routes in Central Wall

Alice in Banana Land T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
All the Nasties T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Banana Patch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bitchin Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Brain Dead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Busted T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cowboyography T,S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hueco Syndrome S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Abstract S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Malice In Bucketland S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Purple Microdot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sea of Holes S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Uriah's Heap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walking on the Moon T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Window Pain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 33 total · 5/month
Shared By: Steven Reneau on Apr 9, 2018
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Ascends a steep buttress above the anchors for Alice in Bananaland. Fun climbing with a great position. Tops out near top of Cakewalk. Walk off as for Cakewalk.

Location

After climbing Alice in Bananaland, instead of heading left to anchors below bushes, head straight up past the bushes to a higher 2-bolt anchor.

Protection

2-bolt belay anchor at base, and 3 bolts on buttress. I used a small nut and a medium cam to protect the approach to the buttress, and a nut and small cams for an anchor at the top.

Photos

Steven Reneau
  5.9
Steven Reneau  
  5.9
5.9 rating from Sherman. Seemed easier than other 5.9s at Hueco.

Bolts at anchors and on buttress are new, epoxied. At 2nd bolt on buttress, original 1/4” bolt also remains, and both bolts had biners for rapping. Apr 9, 2018
Gabriel Flores
El Paso, TX
Gabriel Flores   El Paso, TX
Really fun route, looks hard and thin from the ground however the moves aren't that bad, the entire line is bolted with a belay right in the middle of the route, you can use those to rappel or continue up to the top and rappel from the cakewalk bolts( this also sets up top a rope for bitchin chimney) Jul 30, 2018

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