This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Hueco Tanks page.
This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the North Mountain page.
Susan on her first ever pulls at Hueco.
Description
Pretty good intro to the Hueco roped routes. Right off the Malice Boulder, jungle gym your way up big deep huecos to the first bolt (about 25' up), then move left and up the rounded arete past seven more bolts, working huecos and good edges. Head up and right at the last bolt to get to the two bolt anchor. There are some pretty good stretches between bolts on this route, so climb carefully!
Location
The route launches off the Malice Boulder, found on a narrow buttress sandwiched between two large chimneys just right of the Cakewalk section of North Mountain.
Protection
8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor. You can slingshot this route with a 70m rope, but NOT with a 60m! Bring two ropes if you have 60m!
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Oct 16, 2007 rating: 5.9-
Classic hueco pulling on good rock and maybe the best route in Hueco for the grade. If for some reason you are rapping to clean the draws, be careful as the route is well left of the anchors and you will be looking at a good swinger into Paul Bunyons Chimney if you botch the rap.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Oct 17, 2007
This is the first route I'd ever done at HT & what a treat! Nice introduction to the area and what to expect in the climbing. Bolted line is actually 7 bolts w/2 bolt anchor. Not 8 like the guide and MP indicate.
The last bolt didn't create any sort of rope drag but I noted in my book to bring a long quick-draw for the last clip as it is a bit left of the anchors.
Central Wall
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