This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the Hueco Tanks page.
This route has access issues. Please read the note available on the North Mountain page.
Description
the first pitch is fairly bold, with scant bolts and some loose rock. Climb past the first bolt (~25ft high) to a thin crack which can be protected with small wires. Then head right past 2 bolts before heading left underneath a small bulge to the last bolt. Belay on a nice ledge with a solid two-bolt anchor (100' to ground).
Pitch 2 is easier, has better rock and excellent protection. Gear required for the belay at a huge ledge. A short 3rd pitch up cracks leads to the top.
Location
Starts just behind the Split boulder. Walk-off to the north or find rap-anchors for another route.
Protection
1st pitch, 4 bolts and a few small wires in the shallow cack. 2nd pitch requires wires and small camming units, but is well protected.
First pitch is a test piece of thin edge climbing. I have climbed the first pitch more than ten times but never will lead it. A little risky for me. Excellent. It takes a little route finding to keep pitch one to 5.9+. The second pitch is more 8+. One bolt up high and one right off the belay ledge. Many good trad placements but some hard to see. A 60m rope lets you finish way up on belay ledge so you can start the third pitch easier. A 50m rope means you must move belay for pitch three. The third pitch is a choice of two nice cracks that go at 5.7. Third pitch is 80 feet.
Central Wall
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