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Muir Valley

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Animal Crackers Wall 
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Guide Wall 
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Sunbeam Buttress 
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Muir Valley Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.7282, -83.6353 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 126,189
Administrators: DisturbingThePeace, Jason Halladay, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 4, 2006  with updates from Chiyram
Forecast:
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64°
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83° | 59°
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84° | 63°
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Bolt testing done in Muir Valley.

Description 

Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to already funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 20 separate climbing areas, all open to climbers at no charge.

While there's a smattering of trad lines, the climbing in Muir Valley is mostly sport. Muir has a reputation for soft grading, but don't take it for granted. There's also a lot of variety in the valley; new leaders can have fun at places like the Great Wall or Bruise Brothers, while hard climbers can throw themselves at the 12s and 13s of the Sanctuary.

The Webers are generous with access to their valley treasure, but there are some rules that must be followed. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.com/warnings---rule..., but the most important are listed below:

  • All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. This can be done online at the above URL.
  • The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
  • No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley.
  • No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.

Getting There 

If you're driving from Miguel's, follow KY 11 south for about six miles to the intersection with KY 715. Take 715 for about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto CR 2016. Follow this road just over a mile past a closed carpet store, then take the first gravel road to the left. Continue down this road, bearing left at each fork. After about 3/4 of a mile, turn right on a gravel drive to the parking area (you'll see a garage). Take the appropriate trail to the area where you plan to climb.

Fees 

While there is not officially a fee to enter and climb at Muir Valley, donations to the Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV) are strongly encouraged. Climbers can donate online or in person at Muir Valley using the donation boxes at the parking lot.

However, effective March 1, 2016, parking at Muir Valley will cost $10 per car per day. Alternatively, users can purchase an annual parking pass for $120. This parking fee aims to encourage carpooling and help alleviate parking issues on busy weekends. The official FOMV press release on the new parking fee is:

We have some important news to share with you concerning changes for the 2016 climbing season.

As you know, Muir Valley is one of the most popular climbing destinations in North America, with over 40,000 visitors each year. This enthusiastic utilization requires significant resources to maintain and operate the preserve, as well as continue ongoing improvements such as vault toilets in the valley, emergency response system upgrades, and new trail development. FOMV is fortunate to own and steward such an amazing place, and we couldn’t do it without the
dedication and support of the climbing community.

Muir has become so popular, however, that our parking lots are full to overflowing most weekends and some weekdays throughout the climbing season, necessitating the hiring of staff to manage the busy
lot, and occasionally visitors have had to be turned away when we reach capacity.

We have implemented a plan to achieve a fairer distribution of support, and to avoid over-crowding by charging a fee for parking at Muir Valley. Admission to the Valley will remain free, but we will institute a daily parking charge of $10 per car starting March 1, 2016. Visitors may also purchase a 2016 annual parking permit for $120, and we will provide a laminated ID to display on the dashboard while visiting. All revenue raised by parking fees will go to FOMV and will be used to operate, maintain, and further enhance Muir Valley. Parking fees will augment the donations made by our generous supporters, enabling us to continue making Muir such a special place to climb, hike, and enjoy nature.

Beginning in March, there will be a kiosk as you enter the Muir Parking area. We will have staff present as much as practically possible to assist you, to process your cash or credit/debit card payment, and to give you a receipt to display on your dashboard while parked. At other times, when it is not practical to staff the kiosk, the plan will operate on an honor system with instructions and routine monitoring, as is done in many other climbing areas. In case the kiosk is not staffed, please plan to bring $10 cash (per car, not per person) so that you can use the honor system.

Alternatively, you may complete an application on this website for an Annual Muir Valley Parking Permit, and pay $120 by PayPal, credit, or debit card. We will then send a laminated 2016 Annual Parking Permit (good until Dec 31, 2016) to your postal address.

Thank you for your support and cooperation. We value your feedback as well as your support. If you have questions or comments, please contact us at FOMV.publicity@gmail.com. We look forward to seeing you in the spring!

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.6 miles from here

312 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',19],['3 Stars',137],['2 Stars',120],['1 Star',34],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',13],['5.7',23],['5.8',35],['5.9',30],['5.10',75],['5.11',81],['5.12',49],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Muir Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Muir Valley:
Send Me on My Way   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Bruise Brothers Wall
Plate Tectonics   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   Tectonic Wall
Dynabolt Gold   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   The Great Wall
59" DrillBitch   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 45'   Johnny's Wall
Rat Stew   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Bruise Brothers Wall
Boltergeist   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   The Hideout
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Tectonic Wall
Pre-emptive Strike   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   The Hideout
Return of Manimal   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Bruise Brothers Wall
Air Ride Equipped   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Solarium
Bathtub Mary   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   The Arsenal
Banshee   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Solarium
Iniquity   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Midnight Surf
Super Best Friends   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 95'   The Solarium
Abiyoyo   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   The Solarium
Cell Block Six   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Midnight Surf
Triple Sec aka Fifty Bucks   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 95'   The Sanctuary
Jesus Wept   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   The Sanctuary
Prometheus Unbound   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 100'   The Sanctuary
Bundle of Joy   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 90'   The Solarium
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Muir Valley

Featured Route For Muir Valley
Rock Climbing Photo: Tripp on Everything That Rises Must Converge 5.11d

Everything That Rises Must Converge 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Bibliothek
3rd sport route from the right on the main wall...[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Photos of Muir Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zach Adamczyk going for the clip while climbing Ge...
Zach Adamczyk going for the clip while climbing Ge...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jakob and i after a long day in 90+ degrees...
Jakob and i after a long day in 90+ degrees...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Messick climbing on Gettin Lucky in Kentuck...
Andrew Messick climbing on Gettin Lucky in Kentuck...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicholas Hernandez clipping in the rope while clim...
Nicholas Hernandez clipping in the rope while clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Corey Day climbing "Plate Tectonics" in ...
Corey Day climbing "Plate Tectonics" in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Muir Valley between winter and spring
Muir Valley between winter and spring
Rock Climbing Photo: this is me climbing Naughty Neighbors 5.10d at The...
this is me climbing Naughty Neighbors 5.10d at The...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise over Muir Valley. Oct 2010.
Sunrise over Muir Valley. Oct 2010.
Rock Climbing Photo: The hidden Hemlock
BETA PHOTO: The hidden Hemlock
Rock Climbing Photo: Map Of muir Valley climbing area with call outs fo...
BETA PHOTO: Map Of muir Valley climbing area with call outs fo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Watch yourself!
Watch yourself!

Comments on Muir Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 17, 2015
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
Dec 6, 2006
This area is owned by two climbers, Liz and Rick Weber (two great people). They have a Web site detailing climbing rules, etc.

muirvalley.com
By Ladd
Administrator
Apr 13, 2007
Muir Valley is awesome, many many classic climbs here make the drive(and hike) worthwhile, and then some!!
By Ladd
Administrator
May 3, 2007
Be aware that most of the ratings in Muir are considered soft(doesn't mean they aren't wicked fun).
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
May 19, 2007
That is the general feel, although try Cindarella at the Boneyard. Rated 5.9, more like a 10b. On the other hand, I lead "Dyno-Mite" today rated 5.9, more like an easy 5.8. YMMV...
By Paul Corsaro
From: Indianapolis, IN
Sep 23, 2008
although many of the routes do have soft grades, it is not a blanket characteristic. some of the harder routes of their grades are at muir, as well as some of the softer ones. fantastic place to climb with very many classic routes. The surf is easily one of the best crags at the Red, and the Sanctuary and Solarium are two impressive walls as well.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 14, 2008
My favorite place to visit when in the area, amazing climbing.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 14, 2008
Hey Remo. I haven't been to Muir but the Red is the shit. Muir is threatened although it seems like it's in the very easy stages of threat. Check here on redriverclimbing.com and here on climbingnarc.com for details and see what we can do to help.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 14, 2008
Oops I missed here on mountainproject.
By Brian Runnells
Nov 18, 2008
Also, don't forget the Friends Of Muir Valley access group. They are often overlooked in favor of the RRGGC, but they do important work maintaining everything in Muir.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 10, 2010
I just recently made my first trip to RRG and I loved Muir Valley. I would suggest a stick clip, I did find on first bolt that was to high for my stick clip to reach. What a great place to climb.
By Bobrunning
From: Madison, wi
Oct 31, 2010
Parking latitude 37.724558 longitude -83.634783
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Apr 22, 2011
Liz & Rick are really wonderful people who welcome you with open arms. My favorite area by far.
By chopsticktown
From: Blandon, PA
Jan 7, 2013
Does anyone know if it is allowed to visit the limestone caves on the Muir Valley property? A buddy of mine told me there are caves there and I would like to mix it up and have a full day of rock climbing and caving.

Thanks!
By Richard Weber
May 27, 2013
Chopsticktown:

There are no limestone caves in Muir Valley. And, because sandstone doesn't leech away like limestone, there are no caves that are anything like the real limestone caves of Western Kentucky. However there are a few relatively deep "rock shelters"—one of which goes back a hundred feet or so, then turns and comes out a different way. It is located just to the left of the Sunnyside wall.
By Dustin Stephens
Aug 7, 2013
Although Muir is officially open at "no charge," PLEASE DONATE to the boxes in the parking lot or at friendsofmuirvalley.org/donate... when you climb here!! The Webers have spent many thousands of their own dollars to open their land up to climbers, and now it is time for us all to step in and pick up the slack.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 4, 2014
Cross Post about Muir Valley:

mountainproject.com/v/muir-val...
By Dreez
Jun 16, 2014
Talked to the Webers and they are amazing people that donated untold huge THOUSANDS of dollars for all of us to have a outdoor climbing gym. Step up and do the right thing and donate now.

The place is organized, kept up clean, fantastic trails with big signs, each route is marked. Totally amazing the amount of work they put into this area.
By EthanC
Sep 21, 2015
Due to damage to trees at the base of the cliffs, Muir Valley has requested that people stop hanging hammocks. Please respect the rules of the private property and save the trees.

15. Hammocks are not permitted to be put up anywhere in Muir Valley.

muirvalley.com/warnings---rule...
By Nicholas Love
Nov 17, 2015
If you're interested in the story of Muir Valley and the clean up it took to make this place what it is today, here's a recent interview with its founders Rick & Liz Weber:
tryhardclub.com/2015/11/10/fri...

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