Mountain Project: Climbing Red River Gorge

Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, the valley is home to more than 20 separate climbing areas, all open to climbers at no charge.

While there's a smattering of trad lines, the climbing in Muir Valley is mostly sport. Muir has a reputation for soft grading, but don't take it for granted. There's also a lot of variety in the valley; new leaders can have fun at places like the Great Wall or Bruise Brothers, while hard climbers can throw themselves at the 12s and 13s of the Sanctuary.

The Webers are generous with access to their valley treasure, but there are some rules that must be followed. A complete list can be found at www.muirvalley.com, but the most important are listed below:

Getting There

If you're driving from Miguel's, follow KY 11 south for about six miles to the intersection with KY 715. Take 715 for about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto CR 2016. Follow this road just over a mile past a closed carpet store, then take the first gravel road to the left. Continue down this road, bearing left at each fork. After about 3/4 of a mile, turn right on a gravel drive to the parking area (you'll see a garage). Take the appropriate trail to the area where you plan to climb.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Muir Valley:

Send Me on My Way 5.9- Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Bruise Brothers Wall

Plate Tectonics 5.9+ Sport, 70 feet Tectonic Wall

Tradisfaction 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Stadium

Rat Stew 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Bruise Brothers Wall

Boltergeist 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet The Hideout

Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky 5.10b Sport, 60 feet Tectonic Wall

Pre-emptive Strike 5.10c Sport, 90 feet The Hideout

Return of Manimal 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Bruise Brothers Wall

Bathtub Mary 5.11a Sport, 70 feet The Arsenal

Air Ride Equipped 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Solarium

Banshee 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Solarium

Suppress the Rage 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Sunnyside

Manifest Destiny 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Solarium

Abiyoyo 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet The Solarium

Iniquity 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Midnight Surf

Super Best Friends 5.12b Sport, 95 feet The Solarium

Cell Block Six 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Midnight Surf

Triple Sec aka Fifty Bucks 5.12c/d Sport, 95 feet The Sanctuary

Jesus Wept 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet The Sanctuary

Prometheus Unbound 5.13a Sport, 100 feet The Sanctuary

Comments on Muir Valley

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 7, 2013

By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
Dec 6, 2006

This area is owned by two climbers, Liz and Rick Weber (two great people). They have a Web site detailing climbing rules, etc.

www.muirvalley.com

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 13, 2007

Muir Valley is awesome, many many classic climbs here make the drive(and hike) worthwhile, and then some!!

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 3, 2007

Be aware that most of the ratings in Muir are considered soft(doesn't mean they aren't wicked fun).

By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
May 19, 2007

That is the general feel, although try Cindarella at the Boneyard. Rated 5.9, more like a 10b. On the other hand, I lead "Dyno-Mite" today rated 5.9, more like an easy 5.8. YMMV...

By Paul Corsaro
From: Indianapolis, IN
Sep 23, 2008

although many of the routes do have soft grades, it is not a blanket characteristic. some of the harder routes of their grades are at muir, as well as some of the softer ones. fantastic place to climb with very many classic routes. The surf is easily one of the best crags at the Red, and the Sanctuary and Solarium are two impressive walls as well.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 14, 2008

My favorite place to visit when in the area, amazing climbing.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 14, 2008

Hey Remo. I haven't been to Muir but the Red is the shit. Muir is threatened although it seems like it's in the very easy stages of threat. Check here on Redriverclimbing.com and here on Climbingnarc.com for details and see what we can do to help.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 14, 2008

Oops I missed here on mountainproject.

By Brian Runnells
Nov 18, 2008

Also, don't forget the Friends Of Muir Valley access group. They are often overlooked in favor of the RRGGC, but they do important work maintaining everything in Muir.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 10, 2010

I just recently made my first trip to RRG and I loved Muir Valley. I would suggest a stick clip, I did find on first bolt that was to high for my stick clip to reach. What a great place to climb.

By Bobrunning
From: Madison, wi
Oct 31, 2010

Parking latitude 37.724558 longitude -83.634783

By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Apr 22, 2011

Liz & Rick are really wonderful people who welcome you with open arms. My favorite area by far.

By chopsticktown
From: Blandon, PA
Jan 7, 2013

Does anyone know if it is allowed to visit the limestone caves on the Muir Valley property? A buddy of mine told me there are caves there and I would like to mix it up and have a full day of rock climbing and caving.

Thanks!

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Muir Valley

Description

Getting There

The Classics