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Muir Valley

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Animal Crackers Wall 
Arsenal, The 
Bibliothek 
Boneyard, The 
Bowling Alley, The 
Bruise Brothers Wall 
Coyote Cliff 
Fire Wall, The 
Great Arch, The 
Great Wall, The 
Guide Wall 
Hideout, The 
Indy wall 
Inner Sanctum 
Johnny's Wall 
Land Before Time Wall 
Midnight Surf 
Persepolis 
Practice Wall 
Sanctuary, The 
Shawnee Shelter 
Slab City 
Solarium, The 
Stadium, The 
Sunbeam Buttress 
Sunnyside 
Tectonic Wall 
Washboard Wall 

Muir Valley  


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Location: 37.7282, -83.6353 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 318,458
Administrators: saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 4, 2006
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Best routes for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Bolt testing done in Muir Valley.

Description 

Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, the valley is home to more than 20 separate climbing areas, all open to climbers at no charge.

While there's a smattering of trad lines, the climbing in Muir Valley is mostly sport. Muir has a reputation for soft grading, but don't take it for granted. There's also a lot of variety in the valley; new leaders can have fun at places like the Great Wall or Bruise Brothers, while hard climbers can throw themselves at the 12s and 13s of the Sanctuary.

The Webers are generous with access to their valley treasure, but there are some rules that must be followed. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.com, but the most important are listed below:

  • All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. This can be done online at the above URL.
  • The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
  • No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley.

Getting There 

If you're driving from Miguel's, follow KY 11 south for about six miles to the intersection with KY 715. Take 715 for about 2.5 miles, then turn right onto CR 2016. Follow this road just over a mile past a closed carpet store, then take the first gravel road to the left. Continue down this road, bearing left at each fork. After about 3/4 of a mile, turn right on a gravel drive to the parking area (you'll see a garage). Take the appropriate trail to the area where you plan to climb.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.6 miles from here

281 Total Routes

['4 Stars',19],['3 Stars',122],['2 Stars',101],['1 Star',36],['Bomb',3]
['<=5.6',12],['5.7',20],['5.8',34],['5.9',26],['5.10',68],['5.11',77],['5.12',41],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Muir Valley:
Send Me on My Way   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Bruise Brothers Wall
Plate Tectonics   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   Tectonic Wall
Dynabolt Gold   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 70'   The Great Wall
Rat Stew   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Bruise Brothers Wall
Boltergeist   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   The Hideout
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   Tectonic Wall
Pre-emptive Strike   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 90'   The Hideout
Return of Manimal   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Bruise Brothers Wall
Air Ride Equipped   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   The Solarium
Bathtub Mary   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   The Arsenal
Banshee   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Solarium
Suppress the Rage   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Sunnyside
Iniquity   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Midnight Surf
Super Best Friends   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 95'   The Solarium
Abiyoyo   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   The Solarium
Cell Block Six   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Midnight Surf
Triple Sec aka Fifty Bucks   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 95'   The Sanctuary
Jesus Wept   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   The Sanctuary
Tapeworm   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Midnight Surf
Prometheus Unbound   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 100'   The Sanctuary
Browse More Classics in Muir Valley

Featured Route For Muir Valley
The no-hands rest halfway up Iniquity.

Iniquity 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  KY : Red River Gorge : ... : Midnight Surf
Bring your bouldering skills.The route starts with a V4-V5 boulder problem on tiny crimps. Bring edgy shoes.Once passed the buiness, embark on a magical journey of long reached on big holds on a slightly overhanging face. Move right to a huge no hands rest and make a scary clip.Make your way up to smaller holds before engaging the dynamic finish on big holds.ouf.P.S. If you can't make the start, I still suggest you try the rest of the route. Very very exciting....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Local Information for Muir Valley
Photos of Muir Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Jakob and i after a long day in 90+ degrees...
Jakob and i after a long day in 90+ degrees...
The hidden Hemlock
BETA PHOTO: The hidden Hemlock
Map Of muir Valley climbing area with call outs for different walls
BETA PHOTO: Map Of muir Valley climbing area with call outs fo...
Muir Valley between winter and spring
Muir Valley between winter and spring
this is me climbing Naughty Neighbors 5.10d at The Inner Sanctum at Muir Valley...
this is me climbing Naughty Neighbors 5.10d at The...
Sunrise over Muir Valley. Oct 2010.
Sunrise over Muir Valley. Oct 2010.
Watch yourself!
Watch yourself!

Comments on Muir Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 16, 2014
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
Dec 6, 2006
This area is owned by two climbers, Liz and Rick Weber (two great people). They have a Web site detailing climbing rules, etc.

muirvalley.com
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 13, 2007
Muir Valley is awesome, many many classic climbs here make the drive(and hike) worthwhile, and then some!!
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 3, 2007
Be aware that most of the ratings in Muir are considered soft(doesn't mean they aren't wicked fun).
By Jim Matt
From: Indianapolis, IN
May 19, 2007
That is the general feel, although try Cindarella at the Boneyard. Rated 5.9, more like a 10b. On the other hand, I lead "Dyno-Mite" today rated 5.9, more like an easy 5.8. YMMV...
By Paul Corsaro
From: Indianapolis, IN
Sep 23, 2008
although many of the routes do have soft grades, it is not a blanket characteristic. some of the harder routes of their grades are at muir, as well as some of the softer ones. fantastic place to climb with very many classic routes. The surf is easily one of the best crags at the Red, and the Sanctuary and Solarium are two impressive walls as well.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 14, 2008
My favorite place to visit when in the area, amazing climbing.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 14, 2008
Hey Remo. I haven't been to Muir but the Red is the shit. Muir is threatened although it seems like it's in the very easy stages of threat. Check here on redriverclimbing.com and here on climbingnarc.com for details and see what we can do to help.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Nov 14, 2008
Oops I missed here on mountainproject.
By Brian Runnells
Nov 18, 2008
Also, don't forget the Friends Of Muir Valley access group. They are often overlooked in favor of the RRGGC, but they do important work maintaining everything in Muir.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 10, 2010
I just recently made my first trip to RRG and I loved Muir Valley. I would suggest a stick clip, I did find on first bolt that was to high for my stick clip to reach. What a great place to climb.
By Bobrunning
From: Madison, wi
Oct 31, 2010
Parking latitude 37.724558 longitude -83.634783
By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Apr 22, 2011
Liz & Rick are really wonderful people who welcome you with open arms. My favorite area by far.
By chopsticktown
From: Blandon, PA
Jan 7, 2013
Does anyone know if it is allowed to visit the limestone caves on the Muir Valley property? A buddy of mine told me there are caves there and I would like to mix it up and have a full day of rock climbing and caving.

Thanks!
By Richard Weber
May 27, 2013
Chopsticktown:

There are no limestone caves in Muir Valley. And, because sandstone doesn't leech away like limestone, there are no caves that are anything like the real limestone caves of Western Kentucky. However there are a few relatively deep "rock shelters"—one of which goes back a hundred feet or so, then turns and comes out a different way. It is located just to the left of the Sunnyside wall.
By Dustin Stephens
Aug 7, 2013
Although Muir is officially open at "no charge," PLEASE DONATE to the boxes in the parking lot or at friendsofmuirvalley.org/donate... when you climb here!! The Webers have spent many thousands of their own dollars to open their land up to climbers, and now it is time for us all to step in and pick up the slack.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 4, 2014
Cross Post about Muir Valley:

mountainproject.com/v/muir-val...
By Dreez
Jun 16, 2014
Talked to the Webers and they are amazing people that donated untold huge THOUSANDS of dollars for all of us to have a outdoor climbing gym. Step up and do the right thing and donate now.

The place is organized, kept up clean, fantastic trails with big signs, each route is marked. Totally amazing the amount of work they put into this area.