| Lover's Leap |
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Rest Day: Nearby Mountain Bike Rides
Tahoe Rim Trail to Christmas Valley Trail
A great climb on rocky singletrack up to the meadow - terrific alpine scenery, and a sweet descent. Near South Lake Tahoe, CA
Connector
Nice winding singletrack with some good views of the valley. Near South Lake Tahoe, CA
From MP's sister site: MTB
Project
| | Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Lover's Leap panoramic
Description This area is an excellent 250 - 500 foot chunk of mostly vertical granite containing hundreds of horizontal dikes. The resulting climbing is primarily traditional, but has a air of safety because there are rests every few feet. Most of the climbing here is traditional, and you will find about 150 routes that range from bouldering to 4 pitches. Some routes are sport, but most of the sport climbing is .11 or so, as the abundance of easier traditional routes discourages some excellent sport face climbing. All of the routes demand less than 20 minutes to "hike" into, as the entrance path is part of the pioneer trail, and therefore excellently maintained and quite wide. Once you veer off the trail towards the rock things get steep, but are surprisingly easy on the way up. You can camp at the campground at the entrance to the pioneer trail at the main parking lot, about 1/5 - 2/3 of a mile from all climbs. Conveniently located at the edge of the campground are a few large boulders worth doing. From the parking lot, head uphill and cross over the small foot bridge to the Pony Express Trail. Hang a left, and walk up the gently sloped trail for about 3 minutes. Almost all multipitch routes are best to walk off, both for the preservation of existing vegetation, and that most routes don't have any fixed protection at the top of the rock due to the abundance of trees, cracks, and large rocks at the top. You can get pretty good food at the Strawberry Lodge, when it's open.
Getting There From the Bay Area / Sacramento: Head East on highway 50 towards Placerville. Continue past Placerville to the town of Strawberry, which is approximately 8 miles past the more marked Kyburz. Turn off the freeway onto the small route that parallels the 50 just on the far side of the Strawberry lodge, which is hard to miss on your right. This is about 40 miles past Placerville. You get a good glimpse of the west and main walls as you get close to the Lodge on a clear day. From Lake Tahoe: Head 18 miles West on Highway 50 to the town of Strawberry, where you should head a left just before the Strawberry Lodge, which will approach on your left after a magnificent view of Lover's Leap looming to the left on the way to the lodge. From the Strawberry Lodge: Follow the road that Parallels the 50. At the junction, head left, and travel through the small neighborhood quietly and slowly, as advised by local signs. You will run directly into the parking lot about 1/3 mile later. The trailhead is towards the rear of the lot.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lover's Leap:
Browse More Classics in Lover's Leap
Featured Route For Lover's Leap
The Line 5.9 CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : East Wall
This is one of the finest crack lines at the Leap. It is located in the center of the East Wall. It should not be hard to pick out, since it follows a continuous crack system for 400ft.P1: This is the best pitch. Follow a straight in crack in a shallow LF dihedral for 130ft. The first 100ft are continuous, but rests can be found on dikes.P2: Continue up the crack system which turns right facing. Belay before a roof.P3: Short pitch. Climb the roof and descend to the left on a well marked ... [more] Browse More Classics in CA
Lover's Leap. Photo by Blitzo.
| Lover's Leap, storm. Photo by Blitzo.
| BETA PHOTO: Be careful of where you leave you pack, especially...
| BETA PHOTO: Lovers Leap Campground Boulders
| The Line Route at Lover's Leap, photo: Bob Horan
| Lover's Leap Area, and The Line Route which follow...
| BETA PHOTO: 2009 Closure Map
| amazing trees and moss...
| Profile of Traveler Buttress/Main Wall
| Steve Miller. Lover's Leap pioneer. Photo y Blitzo...
| Bouldering at Lover's Leap.
| The Leap. Tiny climber specks on The Line and Bea...
| Lovers Leap en route to Hogsback. Photo by Brian A...
| Lover's Leap after a decent dusting of snow. Take...
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By lundysln May 12, 2013 CONDITION REPORT | Seemed like there was a fall and helicopter rescue on West Wall 5-11. I was topping out on Corrugation when saw a team of high angle rescuers and choppers. Does anyone have any details? |
By Justin Johnsen Administrator From: Sacramento, CA May 13, 2013 CONDITION REPORT | I wrote up what I know of Saturday's fall and rescue in the comments here. |
By Wylie From: Hell, MI May 13, 2013 CONDITION REPORT | Beware! My buddy and I were attacked by a Peregrine Falcon while climbing Traveler's Buttress 2 days ago. It started when I turned the corner of the 5.8 arete pitch and continued until we were near the top. The route isn't listed anywhere as part of the spring closure. The bird was very pissed and extremely aggressive bombing in at our heads with it's talons out. It was not a fun experience. You could climb up to the top of the OW crux pitch and rap off the bolts no problem, but I would avoid the rest of the route unless you like climbing runout dikes while a predatory raptor tries to ravage your eyes. |
By Anonymous Coward Jun 10, 2003
| the leap is very good... check out bears reach (5.7) and the line (5.9) if you've never been. killer stuff. |
By kirra Jun 7, 2007
| I second that area as optional camping. If you want to see something really special, continue up the road to Wright's Lake at the top. Quite a nice place for breakfast if the view of the spires wasn't good enough ~(-: |
By Steve C From: Missoula, MT Jun 27, 2007
| Anyone heard or know if the fire is affecting the area? |
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Jul 12, 2007
| The Fire of late June 2007 was well east of lover's leap, and with the wind coming from the south, the leap would be not affected at all. Eagle Lake - probably, but not the leap. |
By Scotty Nelson From: Boulder Nov 20, 2008
| Would it be too cold at Lover's Leap over Thanksgiving? |
By Karsten From: Sacramento, CA May 15, 2009
| The number for the wildlife biologist in the "Temporary Closure" section is no longer valid. |
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Jul 26, 2009
| So it appears that Lovers Leap has a NW aspect. Am I seeing this right? Just trying to figure out what kind of shade it might receive at what times of day? I'm here visiting in Reno for a couple weeks, and it's 100 degree weather here. Will the Leap be too hot? Any recommendations are appreciated. |
By Salamanizer Administrator From: Vacaville Ca. Jul 29, 2009
| The Leap has lots of shade. Usually when the temps are in the 100's in Reno or the Central Valley the Leap stays at a decent 80-85 degrees. There is an occasional heat wave that may make it a bit warm but that's the exception. Should be nice, lots of shade.... Go! |
By Greg Gibson From: Glen Ellen, Ca Aug 9, 2009
| I was there about two week ago. Weather was in the 90's so tried to climb in the shade. I certainly felt the elevation, after not doing much cardio in a while. I'll be going back to climb in late september when the weather cools off. |
By SKI From: Portlandia, OR May 18, 2010
| Thanks Alan, last time I drove by it looked wet but then again, we weren't up on it. Thanks!! |
By Tim Heid From: Tempe, Az Aug 29, 2010
| I know it's a ways off, but I will be in Tahoe in mid March next year for a snowboarding trip. Is the Leap climable at that time or should I leave the gear at home?? |
By gunter Apr 18, 2011
| Hows the weather typically in mid-may at the leap?...As long as it isn't miserable or hazardous I'm looking to pull down around that time. |
By Murdo Apr 27, 2011
| anybody got info on rock conditions presently? weather is perfect but im just wondering if the cracks are seeping and the ledges wet. |
By Michael Ybarra From: on the road Jul 2, 2011
| Pretty good food at the Lodge? Maybe it's gotten better in the last couple of years but I wouldn't know, since I swore I'd never eat there again ever after the last super crappy meal. |
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Jul 4, 2011
| Easy there... the Lodge is a great resource for climbers and worthy of our support. The food has indeed varied in quality over the years. I wouldn't describe it as terrific, but it currently is decent and reasonably priced. You can get showers there for $5 as well. |
By CritConrad From: Bend, OR Aug 2, 2011
| If you left your watch at the top of a climb, most likely travelers, email me at critconrad@yahoo.com, describe what kind it is and what color, i'll get it back to ya. |
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