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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Lover's Leap 


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Elevation: 5,800'
Lat, Long: 38.8015, -120.133 Map
Page Views: 442,480. Good page? (4 likes)   
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 4, 2003

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Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed
Partly Cloudy
63° | 34°
Partly Cloudy
59° | 34°
Rain Showers
59° | 32°
Chance of Rain
59° | 34°
Chance of Rain
52° | 28°
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Lover's Leap panoramic

Description 

This area is an excellent 250 - 500 foot chunk of mostly vertical granite containing hundreds of horizontal dikes. The resulting climbing is primarily traditional, but has a air of safety because there are rests every few feet. Most of the climbing here is traditional, and you will find about 150 routes that range from bouldering to 4 pitches. Some routes are sport, but most of the sport climbing is .11 or so, as the abundance of easier traditional routes discourages some excellent sport face climbing. All of the routes demand less than 20 minutes to "hike" into, as the entrance path is part of the pioneer trail, and therefore excellently maintained and quite wide. Once you veer off the trail towards the rock things get steep, but are surprisingly easy on the way up.

You can camp at the campground at the entrance to the pioneer trail at the main parking lot, about 1/5 - 2/3 of a mile from all climbs.

Conveniently located at the edge of the campground are a few large boulders worth doing. From the parking lot, head uphill and cross over the small foot bridge to the Pony Express Trail. Hang a left, and walk up the gently sloped trail for about 3 minutes.

Almost all multipitch routes are best to walk off, both for the preservation of existing vegetation, and that most routes don't have any fixed protection at the top of the rock due to the abundance of trees, cracks, and large rocks at the top.

You can get pretty good food at the Strawberry Lodge, when it's open.


Getting There 

From the Bay Area / Sacramento: Head East on highway 50 towards Placerville. Continue past Placerville to the town of Strawberry, which is approximately 8 miles past the more marked Kyburz. Turn off the freeway onto the small route that parallels the 50 just on the far side of the Strawberry lodge, which is hard to miss on your right. This is about 40 miles past Placerville. You get a good glimpse of the west and main walls as you get close to the Lodge on a clear day.

From Lake Tahoe: Head 18 miles West on Highway 50 to the town of Strawberry, where you should head a left just before the Strawberry Lodge, which will approach on your left after a magnificent view of Lover's Leap looming to the left on the way to the lodge.

From the Strawberry Lodge: Follow the road that Parallels the 50. At the junction, head left, and travel through the small neighborhood quietly and slowly, as advised by local signs. You will run directly into the parking lot about 1/3 mile later.

The trailhead is towards the rear of the lot.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lover's Leap:
Corrugation Corner   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Main Wall
Surrealistic Pillar   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 270 feet   Lower Buttress
Bear's Reach   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   East Wall
The Groove   5.8 PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 475 feet   Lower Buttress
East Crack   5.8     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   East Wall
Haystack   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   East Wall
The Line   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   East Wall
Scimitar   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   East Wall
Psychedelic Tree   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet   East Wall
Fear No Evil   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches   East Wall
Fantasia   5.9 R     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   East Wall
Fandango   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 350 feet   East Wall
Traveler Buttress   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet   Main Wall
Hospital Corner   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 240 feet   West Wall
Surrealistic Pillar Direct   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Lower Buttress
Tombstone Terror   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Main Wall
East Corner   5.10d     Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet   East Wall
Power Lust   5.11-     Sport, 85 feet   Main Wall
Boot Hill   5.11     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Main Wall
Pillar of Society   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Lower Buttress
Browse More Classics in Lover's Leap

Featured Route For Lover's Leap
The Line from the Pony Express Trail.

The Line 5.9  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : East Wall
This is one of the finest crack lines at the Leap. It is located in the center of the East Wall. It should not be hard to pick out, since it follows a continuous crack system for 400ft.P1: This is the best pitch. Follow a straight in crack in a shallow LF dihedral for 130ft. The first 100ft are continuous, but rests can be found on dikes.P2: Continue up the crack system which turns right facing. Belay before a roof.P3: Short pitch. Climb the roof and descend to the left on a well marked ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Lover's Leap Slideshow Add Photo
Lover's Leap. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Lover's Leap.
Photo by Blitzo.


Lover's Leap, storm. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Lover's Leap, storm.
Photo by Blitzo.


Be careful of where you leave you pack, especially if there are snacks in it. When you come back there may not be much of a pack left

BETA PHOTO: Be careful of where you leave you pack, especially...

Lovers Leap Campground Boulders

BETA PHOTO: Lovers Leap Campground Boulders

The Line Route at Lover's Leap, photo: Bob Horan

The Line Route at Lover's Leap, photo: Bob Horan

Lover's Leap Area, and The Line Route which follows a perfect multi-pitch finger crack .

Lover's Leap Area, and The Line Route which follow...

2009 Closure Map

BETA PHOTO: 2009 Closure Map

amazing trees and moss...

amazing trees and moss...

Profile of Traveler Buttress/Main Wall

Profile of Traveler Buttress/Main Wall

Steve Miller. Lover's Leap pioneer. <br />Photo y Blitzo.

Steve Miller. Lover's Leap pioneer.
Photo y Blitzo...


Bouldering at Lover's Leap.

Bouldering at Lover's Leap.

The Leap.  Tiny climber specks on The Line and Bear's Reach

The Leap. Tiny climber specks on The Line and Bea...

Lovers Leap en route to Hogsback. Photo by Brian Aitken (crappy climbing photography made possible by Instagram).

Lovers Leap en route to Hogsback. Photo by Brian A...

Lover's Leap after a decent dusting of snow.  Taken December 15th, 2012.

Lover's Leap after a decent dusting of snow. Take...


Comments on Lover's Leap Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 2, 2011
By lundysln
May 12, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

Seemed like there was a fall and helicopter rescue on West Wall 5-11. I was topping out on Corrugation when saw a team of high angle rescuers and choppers. Does anyone have any details?

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 13, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

I wrote up what I know of Saturday's fall and rescue in the comments here.

By Wylie
From: Hell, MI
May 13, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

Beware! My buddy and I were attacked by a Peregrine Falcon while climbing Traveler's Buttress 2 days ago. It started when I turned the corner of the 5.8 arete pitch and continued until we were near the top. The route isn't listed anywhere as part of the spring closure. The bird was very pissed and extremely aggressive bombing in at our heads with it's talons out. It was not a fun experience. You could climb up to the top of the OW crux pitch and rap off the bolts no problem, but I would avoid the rest of the route unless you like climbing runout dikes while a predatory raptor tries to ravage your eyes.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 10, 2003

the leap is very good... check out bears reach (5.7) and the line (5.9) if you've never been. killer stuff.

By kirra
Jun 7, 2007

I second that area as optional camping. If you want to see something really special, continue up the road to Wright's Lake at the top. Quite a nice place for breakfast if the view of the spires wasn't good enough ~(-:

By Steve C
From: Missoula, MT
Jun 27, 2007

Anyone heard or know if the fire is affecting the area?

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 12, 2007

The Fire of late June 2007 was well east of lover's leap, and with the wind coming from the south, the leap would be not affected at all. Eagle Lake - probably, but not the leap.

By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Nov 20, 2008

Would it be too cold at Lover's Leap over Thanksgiving?

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
May 15, 2009

The number for the wildlife biologist in the "Temporary Closure" section is no longer valid.

By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2009

So it appears that Lovers Leap has a NW aspect. Am I seeing this right? Just trying to figure out what kind of shade it might receive at what times of day? I'm here visiting in Reno for a couple weeks, and it's 100 degree weather here. Will the Leap be too hot? Any recommendations are appreciated.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 29, 2009

The Leap has lots of shade. Usually when the temps are in the 100's in Reno or the Central Valley the Leap stays at a decent 80-85 degrees. There is an occasional heat wave that may make it a bit warm but that's the exception. Should be nice, lots of shade.... Go!

By Greg Gibson
From: Glen Ellen, Ca
Aug 9, 2009

I was there about two week ago. Weather was in the 90's so tried to climb in the shade.

I certainly felt the elevation, after not doing much cardio in a while.

I'll be going back to climb in late september when the weather cools off.

By SKI
From: Portlandia, OR
May 18, 2010

Thanks Alan, last time I drove by it looked wet but then again, we weren't up on it. Thanks!!

By Tim Heid
From: Tempe, Az
Aug 29, 2010

I know it's a ways off, but I will be in Tahoe in mid March next year for a snowboarding trip. Is the Leap climable at that time or should I leave the gear at home??

By gunter
Apr 18, 2011

Hows the weather typically in mid-may at the leap?...As long as it isn't miserable or hazardous I'm looking to pull down around that time.

By Murdo
Apr 27, 2011

anybody got info on rock conditions presently? weather is perfect but im just wondering if the cracks are seeping and the ledges wet.

By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Jul 2, 2011

Pretty good food at the Lodge? Maybe it's gotten better in the last couple of years but I wouldn't know, since I swore I'd never eat there again ever after the last super crappy meal.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 4, 2011

Easy there... the Lodge is a great resource for climbers and worthy of our support. The food has indeed varied in quality over the years. I wouldn't describe it as terrific, but it currently is decent and reasonably priced.

You can get showers there for $5 as well.

By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Aug 2, 2011

If you left your watch at the top of a climb, most likely travelers, email me at critconrad@yahoo.com, describe what kind it is and what color, i'll get it back to ya.