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Routes in West Wall

Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Breeze S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magnum Force T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Third Stone From The Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vanishing Point T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b


A continuation of the Main Wall. Must-do routes include Hospital Corner (5.10a), one of the best 5.10s at the Leap.
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Getting There

Approach as for the Main Wall.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
Note that "Main Wall" and "West Wall" climbs are located off the same continuous ledge system above the Lower Buttress, East Wall and Central Wall.

Tombstone Ledge climbs are located off a smaller ledge system directly below the center-left portion of the Main Wall ledge. This ledge is a bit harder to find, but can also be approached via a separate trail that ascends from the left-most end of East/Central Wall.

In terms of the hiking approach to Main/West Wall, note that once following the path up and right around the base of Lower Buttress, after 5-10 minutes the trail becomes less distinct and "social trail" forks exist which are at some points a bit loose and bushy. One of these forks stays right and skirts the Dear John Buttress all the way to the base of the right-most portion of West Wall. The other fork remains closer to Lower Buttress and involves a small bit of 3rd class boulder scrambling before turning back into a dirt trail that again forks almost as it reaches West Wall - the down and left-ward fork goes to Tombstone Ledge, while the path continuing upward goes to West Wall. If you're deeply bushwacking for more than a few steps, you're no longer on either path.

Either way, expect a bit of a steep slog relative to other Lover's Leap approaches. It's better done not in the smack middle of a hot day.

Once on the West Wall ledge looking directly up at rock, follow a path leftward (which initially descends a bit while still hugging the rock base) to reach Main Wall climbs.

To descend from any climbs that top out West Wall or Main Wall (not all routes do - see individual route info for details), head climber's left from the top of the wall, more or less remaining on a trail that's near the cliff top and NOT back in the forest very far. This trail will eventually descend down to the top of East Wall, and continue left to join the East Wall descent back to the Pioneer Trail.

Have fun up there! Jul 22, 2017

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