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Routes in West Wall

Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Breeze S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magnum Force T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Third Stone From The Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vanishing Point T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Paul Crawford, Richard Harrison and Nick Nordblum, 1982
Page Views: 142 total · 1/month
Shared By: caughtinside on May 29, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is the face just left of Vanishing Point, and finishes on the Vanishing Point anchor. It is 170', so you need 2 ropes to get down. You might be able to get to the Craven Image anchor, but not sure.

The face is characterized by dikes and a number of knobs. The knobs resemble coconuts, hence the route name. There is a thinish discontinuous crack down low which takes some so-so gear, a long face section, and then a finger crack stemming corner to the anchor.

The FA told a friend of mine (third hand info alert!) that you can sling the coconuts. In my humble opinion, most of those would not hold a fall, as the tops of many of those coconuts are rounded and slopey.

I toproped this climb. It is a very fun toprope, but would be a harrowing lead.

Location

West wall. This is the face just left of Vanishing Point, about 30' right of Craven Image.

Protection

This climb would be a very, very serious lead. I listed it as R, but it might even cross the line into X. Nuts, Cams to 1". Slings for marginal knob tie offs. There are no bolts on this climb.

One anchor bolt is a rusty 1/4"er. The webbing was replaced 5/07, there is a rap ring and a quick link.

Photos

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bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
I lead this unit in the mid-80s and remember finding a set of RPs and thin stoppers, and the smallest Metolius tricams made it a bit better. Still, remember feeling that once was enough up the thing. Feb 6, 2009