Type: Trad, 240 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Harrion and Smith, 1977
Page Views: 21,220 total · 135/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The is the best 5.10a climb at the Leap, and it should not be missed if you are a 5.10 climber. It is located on the right side of the main wall.

P1: Follow a fun steep 5.8 corner for 120ft to a set of fixed anchors.

P2: The money pitch. Follow the continuous right-facing corner with jams and lieback moves. Milk the stems for rests, since the hardest moves are at the end of the pitch.

Rap with 2 ropes or a single 70M.


Gear to 3", with extra cams in the mid range
manuel rangel
manuel rangel   Arizona
I agree it was an awesome climb. Well protected and great rests made it a fun end to the day. Feb 20, 2006
Great route- 5.10 doesn't get any better than this. Jun 10, 2006
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
If you go up this climb with 2 60m ropes, you can rap all the way to the ground (Main ledge) in one rap.

Also, I have not done this but have seen it, you should be able to rap with a single 60m, but you have to go to the right, onto some of the anesthesia bolted anchors. Please note that I've heard people do this, but I haven't done it myself.

Fabulous route. Also try the Gamoke, just to the right. A little grungier from lack of traffic, but better and steeper than it looks. If you can handle Hospital, you can do the Gamoke. Dec 14, 2006
D. Shaw
D. Shaw  
Did this stellar route just after the Angora fire was out. This might be one of the finest routes I've done in 25 years of climbing, at this grade (10a is just right - no moves harder, but lots of those). We had Carvell's old (yellow) guide. Do not use his old advice on gear. The earlier comment is correct - take 3" stuff and even bigger. There are lots of slots for larger pieces and you can protect the crux moves on pitch 2 using cams in a hand-sized crack to the left of the corner. Also, you can indeed rap' down on a 60 meter rope now if you angle down onto the route to your right. We did this - just watch carefully for the new (to me anyway) anchors on the bolted route on the face. Jul 5, 2007
Steve C
Missoula, MT
Steve C   Missoula, MT
I agree that this is an outstanding route- as good as any pitch of 10a climbing I've ever done. The dikes that characterize the rock at lovers leap are absent on this route, making it very interesting. One of the Climbing magazine covers features a shot of Hospital Corner that clearly shows the beauty of the route. See the cover for issue 178, August 1998. Jul 27, 2007
great climbing. Bring a 70m and it's 2 easy raps to the ground. May 13, 2008
If you don't mind a short pitch of dirty adventure climbing, you can top out in 2-3 additional pitches. From the top of p2, go up slightly left to the Slash and then follow the ramp diagonally up right, being VERY CAREFUL not to knock anything loose (especially if there's a party below you). Keep an eye out for another bolted anchor on your left, which is reached by a short face traverse.

From here, go more or less straight up the flakes and dikes, perhaps 5.8+. There is one short wide section and probably many variations. I've been told you could run it all the way to the top in one pitch, but you may have enough rope drag to prefer belaying on an obvious ledge. The roof directly above is allegedly 5.9+ but my partner and I opted to go right and then up for moderate and somewhat run-out face climbing over dikes. A fabulous summit experience! Jun 5, 2008
San Francisco
tallmark515   San Francisco
Stellar second pitch! Jun 28, 2009
I always thought the first pitch was 5.6 and kind of a pile. The second pitch is excellent. Aug 24, 2010
This route was always on my list of routes to do and I finally did it and it was kinda disappointing. The first pitch is basically jumbled crap and the second pitch was cool but it certainly looks better in pictures than it actually climbs. This would be a great route for a new 5.10a leader; plenty of stances, bomber gear, and decent exposer. I easily rapped with a 70m. Jul 30, 2011
Mike Stearns
Mike Stearns  
Per Steve C's recommendation.

Aug 27, 2011
Morgan Nutting
Bishop, CA
Morgan Nutting   Bishop, CA
A must do for any crack addict! Love it! Jun 15, 2012
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
Got on this again after 8 years or so from my original onsight of the climb. What a great route. The crux moves are technical and positive. Get on it! Oct 22, 2012
Colin Brochard
Colin Brochard   Austin
If you end up descending with one 60m (as we did) via the tension rapell to the right to some old anchors, watch out for loose flakes etc. The party who descended after us pulled a rather large 50-100 lbs flake off. Fortunately we had moved on to a nearby climb when the flake was dislodged, but watching this block explode on a ledge about 15 ft frm our stuff was pretty gnarly. Aug 23, 2013
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
This route can be rapped with one 60m with no shenanigans. Just rap climber's right to the SECOND anchor (the first has 3 buttonhead bolts and the second, which is about 15 feel lower, has modern bolts). This rap is maybe 50-60 feet. Then rap about 80 feet to another anchor (buttonheads but in good condition). Then 95 feet to the ground.

Stellar route and not as hard as it looks. Aug 3, 2014
Mammoth Lakes, CA
EJoe   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Rapped the route with a single 60m, had about 5 feet to spare for each pitch. We were using a brand new Petzl rope, YMMV. Jan 26, 2015
calder davey
calder davey   Bishop
Way fun. So much good jamming and stemming! Good stuff. Jun 6, 2015
Christine Spang
Oakland, CA
Christine Spang   Oakland, CA
Lead this yesterday and it was great fun! Perfect conditions. Does anyone know what the finger crack variation at the top of p2 goes at? Super chalked up and definitely sees traffic, felt 10ish to me, great locks... but clearly not the usual stemming finish as seen on the magazine cover. I got to it by traversing a few feet right when the crack directly in the corner petered out, and followed it straight up to the flake jug. Jun 15, 2015
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
Amazing route, one of the best 5.10s I've done.

I did this route 7/14/15, the route gets sun around 2pm. I rapped with the 70M and only had a few feet to spare from pitch 2 anchors to the bolted anchors for pitch 1. You can possibly get away with a 60 with a little bit of downclimbing but I'd be very very carefuly. I did see anchors on the right you can possible rap to with a 60meter like what the comment above said. Jul 16, 2015
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
P1 has about 30 feet of 5.8, and then easier to the anchor (but a little less pro).
P2 gear is almost all small at first (to Camalot .75), then near the end I finally used up my 1-3". Rope drag will suck a little if you alternate pro on either side without extending. I don't know of a better pitch of climbing than P2! Oct 26, 2015
JJ Foley
San Francisco, California
JJ Foley   San Francisco, California
Just SO Good.

So so Good.

yeah...really that good.

Best pitch at the Leap. Probably best 10a in Tahoe?

Get on it! Aug 29, 2016
Markus Allgaier
Paderborn, Germany
Markus Allgaier   Paderborn, Germany
It does go with a 60m rope if you use the additional anker on The right side. It is about 15ft to the right of the biiiig flake below the top anker. Be VERY careful when traversing there - Even after years of someone mentioning this here I still managed to pull a quite big block out. Scary Stuff...

That being said: Awesome climb! Jun 1, 2017
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Yes indeed. That good. I even thought the first pitch was fun.

The money pitch will take as many nuts and finger sized to green camalots you can throw at it. After the mini roof the last bit took a #1 and #2 camalot but was very easy compared to the rest of the climbing. Crux is definitely midway. My partner failed to stem properly off the left hand crack with her foot and it made it alot harder. If you brought a #3 camalot, don' hesitate to use it in the opening wide hand crack.

I don't think I used triples of any cam, but I also placed alot of nuts. That being said, triples of finger to green camalot could very likely get used if you wanted to drop in lot of pro. Sep 27, 2017