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Routes in West Wall

Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Breeze S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magnum Force T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Third Stone From The Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vanishing Point T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Gene Drake, J. Hicks, 1971.
Page Views: 2,961 total, 22/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route climbs the striking jamcrack, left of a pink wall.
Start in the low-angle section of "Craven Image". Diagonal left until a large left-facing corner is almost reached and belay. Climb this corner to ledges.

Climb the identifying jamcrack to a belay ledge. This is a great pitch!
A long face pitch leads past a bolt to the Slash. Continue to the top.

Protection

Pro to 3".
Nick_Cov
Truckee, CA
 
Nick_Cov   Truckee, CA
 
Route worth doing for pitch 2 alone- and its nice to get away from the crowds.
P1. Obvious blocky line to the right of hospital corner. Zig zag left, pull a fun corner and traverse right under the roof leading to a nice ledge belay with small gear. Use slings on all gear.

P2. Fun move under a small roof into a fun hand crack leading to a long 5.9 strange splitter. Can be hard to place gear as the 2 sides of the cracks are somewhat offset from eachother so it would be easy for a cam to walk to deep into the crack and have the back lobes open up. This pitch is great fun, leads to a nice ledge.

P3. Steep but juggy fun 5.7 with thin gear (but I thought there was plenty). Couldn't find the bolt.

P4. I think there are probably a few variations, I may have went the wrong way but it was fun but dirty climbing through roofs and blocks to the top. Maybe we should have went right. Sep 4, 2016
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
 
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
 
We did P1 of Anesthesia (5.8) as the approach pitch, then a mini pitch traverse right over to April Fools. Rapped off the top of P2 with 2 60's to the ground - had to leave slings and rings.

Fun route. The offset crack system makes pro a little tricky and gets your attention. Is this why it's called April Fool? Jun 14, 2016
csproul
Davis, CA
csproul   Davis, CA
At the top of the 2nd pitch is an old fixed pin with a ring. We left a cord equalized with a block on 8/16/15 and a locking biner to rap off of. We had a single 70 and had to leave an additional sling/biners at the top of the first pitch (I anticipate these will soon disappear). I think a pair of 60's would get you to the ground from the top of the second pitch. This would be a fantastic place for some anchor/rap bolts as the upper pitches deteriorate and are seldom done. The second pitch is one of the bet pitches of 5.9 I have ever done. Aug 17, 2015
BAd
BAd  
Is it still possible to rap from the top of the crux pitch back to Main Ledge?

Thanks! May 13, 2014
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
A kick ass pitch 2 that packs a punch with nearly every move. Jun 30, 2011
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
West wall... Yes!

To the right of Hospital Corner... Yes!

It's actually a very obvious line up the west wall. Look for a splitter crack at the top of the approach trail before it takes a 180 and heads left to Hospital corner etc... The splitter crack starts one pitch off the ground, FYI. Jun 18, 2011
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Am I crazy or is this on the West Wall? It's to the right of Hospital Corner. Apr 29, 2011
BAd
BAd  
Salamanizer is correct about the first pitch. Do a little bit of zig-zag up a corner then hand traverse under a roof right to the base of the crack. This is fun and well protected. People doing this route should be aware, however, that the pitch above the crack (p3) has some pretty big run-outs on thin gear. The climbing is 5.7, but no screw ups allowed.

To finish the upper head wall, look into Dead Tree Direct, a rarely done gem that climbs the dead center of the highest headwall and finishes at the very top. Great, moderate dike climbing with good pro. Jan 11, 2011
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A way fun route! Aug 24, 2010
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
Not sure about Blitzos discription of the first couple pitches. I suppose that's one way of doing it, but certainly not the best approch. Climbing a shallow corner system directly below the second pitch jamcrack in a "direct approach" has been the more popular way to reach the first pitch belay ledge. However this pitch has it's pit-falls as well. It's slightly run out with some finicky gear in spots, and is pretty dirty. This pitch is shown as a dotted line (marked .8r) in a direct line below the second pitch in the falcon guide.

Another approach (which with some traffic and cleaning would prove to be the most enjoyable and aesthetic approach) is to climb the left faceing corner (mistakeingly marked as the true first pitch in the falcon guide with a circled P) to the belay ledge below the jamcrack. This corner climbs a short shallow crack with limited gear then traverses up several feet and to the left on beautiful dikes to gain the main corner system. This corner system climbs a dirty low angle crack for a short distance then turns into a beautifully clean lieback flake that tends slightly out left to a stance under a steep roof which is split by a perfect finger crack heading right. After making the traverse, a short mantle will bring you to the large belay ledge. There are a couple fixed pins (and gear) that make up the anchor. The beautiful handcrack is directly above.

The route now has fixed gear and slings at the first and second pitches making it possible to rap (in two rappels) with a 60m rope, but just barely. Watch the ends of your rope rapping from the second pitch as you will barely make touchdown before the ends slip through your rappel device. For this reason the rapel is somewhat dangerous, so pay attention! Dec 11, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
First pitch is junky and weird 5.7.

Second pitch is fantastic, one of the best crack pitches at the leap! Steep, interesting, spectacular! Sep 4, 2007
426
426  
Perhaps my favorite route at the leap. Crux pitch is airy and spectacular.

A great alternative to more crowded queues...this route has seen a bit more popularity recently....justifiably... Mar 8, 2007