Mountain Project Logo

Routes in West Wall

Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Breeze S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magnum Force T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Third Stone From The Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vanishing Point T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 288 total, 4/month
Shared By: Laine Christman on May 29, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Start at the 3rd class, broken area.

P1- head up the broken blocks to base of headwall (60ft)

P2- climb a thin crack then do a series of mantels on big dikes to gain another shallow crack (deck potential), then head left and up the steep flake with a hand crack in the back (awesome and exposed), belay inside the chimney.

P3- follow the chimney up to it's end, angle right and up following steep dikes, placing pro when available. Belay at the bowl. From here climb the hand crack 25ft up and right to a ledge with a lone pine tree at the south end.

2 raps get you back down or scramble to the top of west wall. (Note: many options exist for pitch 3)

Location

Right of April Fools, start a base of broken blocks.

Protection

Pro to 3"

Photos

- No Photos -
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
Yeah, it matches my description, but I think my description is bogus as I too was lost the first time I climbed it.
It wasn't until I spotted a lone pin far to the left of Craven's start that I realized it was a different route. Actually, I climbed up to the pin via some loose block thing with a crack behind it, then continued up some scary loose 5.10R/X bullshit past the pin and then, that's when I spotted the independent line of Lady Bug. It's a junky shallow flake with huge dykes just left of the big chimney of Craven image. I've since climbed it and can't say much for it. It is exposed though. Gears good. Jun 20, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
I think everyone gets lost up there. I went up to do Lady Bug years ago. Got that first move rude awakening, then I think I was in Craven. Did a funny dike traverse way right to Clonedike anchor I think and was just plain lost after that. Pretty fun. Jun 8, 2012
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
 
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
 
It is quite possible, but instead of traversing out right from the second belay in the chimey, we continued up the chimney to the top of the pillar that is shared with April Fools, then traversed right over to the bowl (could have gone straight up tho). This seems consistent with the Carville guide as well as your RC post on the routes. It is my guess the confusing start(s) is what keep these quality routes from seeing more ascents. Awesome exposure with fairly easy climbing. Jun 8, 2012
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
Mmm, hard to tell, but I think you did a variation to Craven image and not Lady bug. Lady Bug is in the shallow flake just left of the prominent one of Craven Image. Lady Bug goes up to the top of the pillar that joins with April Fools and ends there. Craven Image goes up the shallow flake/chimney/gully with the piton. Then cuts out right up the face full of dikes ending at the bowl. Then there are several ways off the top from there, the best being Easier than it Looks.

There's a route left of Lady Bug also. 5.10Xish, one piton, some shitty RP's and a giant loose block on questionable quality rock. I don't really recommend it. Unknown and not in the guide. Jun 8, 2012