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Routes in West Wall
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Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anesthesia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Arctic Breeze S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Arrowroot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bombs Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crazy Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jester, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Last Laugh, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Magnum Force T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Main Vein T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Slash, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Third Stone From The Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vanishing Point T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | P. Berry, R. Linnett (1958) |
| Page Views: | 729 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Apr 9, 2018 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
The Slash is a rarely climbed route route with its fair share of munge, loose junk and lack of beta. This isn't a route for those who rarely make it to the Leap, rather for those who are drawn to the unknown and looking for something different and obscure, which the Leap is well known for.
Start by climbing up a mungy crack that is the first crack you come to when you look to the right from the start of Absolutely Billy. Climb up about 140ft to the first ledge you come to and make a belay there. Pitch 2 climbs up the obvious "slash" feature going out diagonally to the right. Belay on the big ledge which lies just above the top of Hospital Corner and Crazy Daze.
You can continue up any number of ways to the top of the formation, the best of which is probably Dead Tree Direct, or do a short scramble down to the top of Hospital Corner and rappel from there.
Start by climbing up a mungy crack that is the first crack you come to when you look to the right from the start of Absolutely Billy. Climb up about 140ft to the first ledge you come to and make a belay there. Pitch 2 climbs up the obvious "slash" feature going out diagonally to the right. Belay on the big ledge which lies just above the top of Hospital Corner and Crazy Daze.
You can continue up any number of ways to the top of the formation, the best of which is probably Dead Tree Direct, or do a short scramble down to the top of Hospital Corner and rappel from there.
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