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Routes in West Wall

Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Breeze S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magnum Force T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Third Stone From The Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vanishing Point T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jay Smith, Bill Todd, 1976. FFA: John Bachar, Ron Kauk, 1978.
Page Views: 1,209 total, 9/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Mar 3, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

On the steep cliff band below Main Ledge are two nearly parallel cracks. This climbs the left crack.
Boulder up to the crack, after about 70', the crack turns up and left. 5.11 climbing leads to easy climbing and Main Ledge.

Protection

Pro to 2.5".

Rap bolts at the top.

Photos

- No Photos -
DylanJK
Berkeley, CA
DylanJK   Berkeley, CA
There are bolts at the top.
i recommend bringing up your second then rapping. we got our rope stuck lowering.. Jun 18, 2015
Ben J.
Beacon, NY
 
Ben J.   Beacon, NY
 
I really, really like this route. It has a few distinct sections, all with fun and interesting climbing. The start is indeed intimidating. However, you can protect it well with a blue TCU and a purple TCU. I haven't really climbed anything quite like the upper crux section. A few small to medium cams work well for the anchor in a short corner section just below the main ledge. Oct 21, 2013
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
this route really needs a pair of bolts at the top. Aug 16, 2011
Ryan Curry  
 
I found the bouldery start (which it shares with Magnum Force) to be nearly as difficult as the thin hands higher up. Maybe not technically, but more difficult to commit to. I used a green alien, small steel wire, and a 000 C3 off the deck and a .75 Camalot and orange Alien at the upper thin hands crux. Send it! Jun 15, 2008
426
426  
Save a few 1 and 2 camalots for the beefy albeit short crux. This route is a must do for the thin hands maestros....

Don't be intimidated, if you can boulder out the initial section, I feel like you can send.... Mar 8, 2007