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Routes in West Wall

Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Breeze S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magnum Force T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Third Stone From The Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vanishing Point T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Mike Carville and Lon Harter,1995
Page Views: 1,978 total, 15/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Start up a jagged detached flake to the face with multicolored green and orange lichen. Then, continue up the highly featured face protected by bolts. There are other knobs that can be slung, but they are not necessary. The dikes range from thin to huge on this fine route.

Location

Arctic Breeze is just around the corner to the left from Hospital Corner. The bolted arete is Nirvana, 11c, about 10' right of Arctic Breeze.

Protection

Bolts, 1 knob tie off, optional gear at start of route, optional knob tie off.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Super fun, and bolts where you need them. Maybe one piece of gear getting to the first bolt. Sep 27, 2017
csproul
Davis, CA
csproul   Davis, CA
Totally safe route, despite the ST description. Short crux and then more mellow climbing. Not great, but ok and worth doing if you're there. Aug 12, 2015
kenr  
Seemed like the crux was only a short section. Most of the rest much easier (but fun enough) climbing.
For more sustained nearby, could try Absolutely Billy. Jul 27, 2015
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
  5.9+
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
  5.9+
Great route to do while you are waiting in line for Hospital Corner. Good protection, just one or two 5.9+ moves, then easy dike hiking to top. Can rap on 60m rope. Jun 11, 2014
BrianWS
  5.9
BrianWS  
  5.9
Very easy compared to other 5.10- face climbs at the leap, especially due to the lack of height dependent movement. Some of the rock sounded rather hollow around mid-route. Jan 28, 2013
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10a
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10a
I enjoyed this route, even though my partner did not.

Crux is somewhere around the first 2 bolts, but I didn't really find it or any other part of this route that challenging.

I could see this route rated at 5.9

Confirmed 7 or 8 bolts, route is a full 100' rappel, okay with a 60m rope despite what Supertopo says.

Supertopo also says recommended for solid 5.10 leaders only, I disagree. This route is very safe and the climbing to the high first bolt is very easy 5th class. Jun 28, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
The first bolt has been replaced. I think there are 7 or 8 lead bolts total. You can still tie off a couple knobs, but it isn't necessary. Take care when rapping/lowering, as it takes all of 60m to get down. Jun 4, 2007