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Routes in West Wall

Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Anesthesia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Breeze S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arrowroot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bombs Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jester, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Laugh, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnum Force T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slash, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Third Stone From The Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vanishing Point T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Trey Corless, John Scott.
Page Views: 125 total · 19/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Apr 11, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Anesthesia starts up an easy slab route with well spaced bolts to the anchors just right of the Gamoke. From the anchors you turn a small roof on its right side (crux) and continue up face and discontinuous cracks to a two bolt anchor. Pitch 3 climbs the face above with well spaced bolts to the top of a good ledge. Continue to the top of the West Wall or down climb to the left and you can do a double rap down Nirvana or Hospital Corner with some route finding skills. 

Location

The start is on a slab about 25ft right of Hospital Corner. Just start climbing, you'll see the bolts eventually. 

Protection

Cams to 2". Nuts 1 set.

Photos

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Ensign
Zephyr Cove, NV
Ensign   Zephyr Cove, NV
I climbed the 5.8 first pitch only. I thought it was a fun, worthy climb by itself, worth 2.5 stars. It has some real issues, though. I only recommend it for a sold, experienced leader who is very comfortable at the 5.8 grade. It is wet early in the spring and part of the route goes right up the water streak. The climbing starts out up steep steps and features totally unprotected moves onto ledges with a little dirt on the ledges for the first 12-15 feet or so. Then it gets very easy as you climb up and right to the first pro and then back up and left to the next pro. The only 2 protection points I found are placed behind 2 very thin flakes you can get small cams behind on the way up to the morbidly high first bolt. However, if you fell, it is likely the thin flakes would fracture - they are quite thin. The protection placements are far from ideal: the cams are almost upside down, they stick up and out at a funny, non-manufacturer recommended load angle. It may be better to use nuts or tiny tricams if you can work out how to get them to stay in the shallow placement pockets. The first bolt is hard to spot. It is up about 40 feet and about 10 feet to the right of the black water streak. Some of the bolts (particularly the very unhealthy looking first bolt) are smaller-diameter looking rusty button heads, some rusty hex heads. The first bolt looks like maybe it got hit by rockfall or somebody beat on it with a hammer - it's scratched and bent. There are 5-6 bolts protecting the climb as I recall. There is and anchor at the top that consists of 2 rusty button head bolts. A 60 meter rope makes the round trip back to the ground without much to spare. There are 5-6 bolts and 2 cam placements in a 100-foot pitch. The protection wanders quite a bit, I recommend bringing shoulder-length runners to reduce rope drag. This is a fun and challenging 5.8 with sporty moves well above your last protection and a lot of thoughtful little traversing moves to link up the path of righteousness. I thought it was really worth doing, kind of like an easier, less protected version of Power Lust. If it protected well it would be a great consolation prize if you hike up to corrugation corner and find a line of people waiting. But I think it could really use the bolt-replacing assistance of the ASCA (please!). It also could really use a couple of bolts or 3 or maybe fixed pins in the first 40 feet as well (pretty please)? Sep 28, 2018

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