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Routes in West Wall

Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Breeze S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magnum Force T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Third Stone From The Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vanishing Point T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Royal Robbins, Steve Roper, 1969.
Page Views: 3,894 total, 29/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

50' west of where Main Ledge turns into a class 2 area, climb a low-angle broken area to a steep wall and belay.

Wander up the wall until a gully is reached, step left and climb to a belay in a bowl.

Wander up to the Slash. Many variations lead to the top.

P1: climb toe of buttress to top of detached pillar with broken blocks.
P2: go right off the belay (to avoid mantles) then angle back left and follow large flake, belay on pillar/small platform in chimney behind flake.
P3: exit chimney and transition to steep, exposed face on right, climb through dikes and thin flakes to large bowl and belay on right side.
P4: follow ramp on far (left) side of bowl, angling up and left, belay on large ledge with broken blocks.
P5: go straight up and angle slightly right, awesome exposed finishing moves through fist/off-hands crack, belay on bench.
Scramble to the top.

Protection

Pro to 3".
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
Going up and right above the ramp exiting the "Bowl" is the better finish than going up that junky, dirty jug haul "dead tree direct", even though that is the original route.

As suggested several times above, going right is the better finish. You go up and finish on a route called "Easier than it looks" in the Falcon Guide. A 5.8 fist crack. The topo overlay (which is hard to see) I posted several years ago shows this variation. One of the better multi pitch routes at the leap IMO. Oct 5, 2017
Dan Birman
Berlin, Germany
  5.7
Dan Birman   Berlin, Germany
  5.7
The topo overlay and some of the above comments make this route seem worse than it is: this is an outrageously fun (and STEEP) climb. The climbing feels more like quartzite than granite.

The pitch 2 (or 1 if you scramble up) mantle is reachy, under ~5'9" and you'll have to do a harder move with gear at your feet, otherwise it's just a jug haul with poor feet.

Don't go left for the last pitch off the ledge as the topo image suggests, you want to go right up into the imposing and complex face on your right side to the wide crack. A #4 came in handy. Oct 3, 2017
hplude
 
hplude  
 
Climbed this route as an alternative to Corrugation. Turns out this route is a (seriously) hidden gem and we ended up enjoying it much more than Corrugation.

Finding the start was quite tricky and as it turns out, we were able to totally avoid the first pitch and scramble up to the start of the second pitch. I think this is ultimately a win as the first pitch didn't look like anything great.

As you approach the main wall, up by where the trail meets the main ledge you can choose to go left (towards the main wall and corrugation) or you can trend up and right and head towards west wall. Take the right hand trail. After about 30-40 yards that trail will fork: you can continue down or split off left and go uphill. You want that left turn! It is not obvious and took us a while to find. That trail will allow you to scramble / bushwhack up to the wall. At your highest point of scrambling you're basically at the start of the route (or the start of P2 according to the beta above). You can do one of two things: belay from here (sketchy unprotected traverse out left) or downclimb into a nice belay alcove. We opted for the latter.

The moves off the ground (start of P2) didn't feel hard to me, but I'm pretty tall and it was a little reachy. As other commenters have noted, it is hard to protect the mantle up to the flake, but I just lassoed one of the knobs and felt OK about it. Regardless, it's definitely a committing move with decking potential.

The last pitch was my favorite. Definitely follow the beta and head up and right (probably many options to do so) until you see the wide crack that you're aiming for. True 5.7/5.8 crack with excellent protection (a couple #3s) and great exposure all the way at the top of the wall. It's the highest point of the Leap! Sep 11, 2016
timmaly
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
timmaly   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Climbed this today and it has the feel of a more remote alpine climb - adventurous route, loose rock, tricky route-finding and rather mungy (had to clean out cracks a few times to place gear and lichen flaked off in many sections as we climbed). Unlike the East Wall, this area clearly doesn't see a lot of traffic. But it was a lot of fun, nonetheless.

The previously-mentioned mantle move at the start of P2, which I agree is much harder than 5.7 and has serious ankle-busting potential, can be bypassed to the right via crack and face climbing that takes decent gear.

I think we were mostly on-route, but we never saw any of the bolted anchors indicated in the Falcon guide, so maybe not. Anyway, here's my summary of the route.

P1: climb toe of buttress to top of detached pillar with broken blocks
P2: go right off the belay (to avoid mantles) then angle back left and follow large flake, belay on pillar/small platform in chimney behind flake
P3: exit chimney and transition to steep, exposed face on right, climb through dikes and thin flakes to large bowl and belay on right side
P4: follow ramp on far (left) side of bowl, angling up and left, belay on large ledge with broken blocks
P5: go straight up and angle slightly right, awesome exposed finishing moves through fist/off-hands crack, belay on bench
Scramble to the top
Jul 3, 2014
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
I agree with Lars. The moves off the broken blocks has deck potential and is not 5.7. We were able to get a small alien and a BD #0.4 in for pro to protect the first mantle. However the next mantel is powerful with no feet and a fall could result in a busted ankle. Other options exist that are easier but are less protectable. Not for someone who is at their limit on 5.7 lead. May 29, 2012
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
I think you were off route Lars. There is nothing difficult on this route, unless some major stuff broke off since I did it. Aug 24, 2010
lars johnson
San Francisco, CA
lars johnson   San Francisco, CA
I've climbed this route twice and found it hard for the grade. The start of pitch 2 is off a detached pillar with no pro for an ankle busting hands only sloping mantle. Above, a dead vertical wall leads to a sling belay off of natural pro. The mantle seemed like hard 9 or 10a. Was I off route or just out of shape? Feb 20, 2008