Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Harrison and Jay Smith, 1977
Page Views: 2,397 total · 16/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Dec 14, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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You can either do the same start as Hospital Corner, or start up a grungy corner just to the right of that. first pitch, 5.8. you could also start up the first pitch of Anesthesia (that sparsely, but adequately bolted slab just right of HC, 5.8) You can either build a gear belay on some blocks at the base of the huge flake, or do what we did, which was to build it on the p1 Anesthesia bolted belay, 10 feet to the right. This saves your hand-sized cams you need for higher on the route.

Pitch two starts by pulling up and in on a finger crack, into a shallow corner, 10b crux. Then, you pull up into the steeper hand crack behind a huge flake that is right of HC. The crack here is actually overhanging, and you can even do some chimney moves behind the flake. Good stemming as well. Finishes at the HC bolted anchor.

This is a very fun route. It is a little grungy since it doesn't see the traffic that HC does, but it is quality. If you can do HC, you can do this route.

Rap off. 70m rope necessary to get to HC p1 bolts, 2 60m ropes will get you to the ground in 1 rap.

Note: most guidebooks list this as 5.8. The crux is NOT 5.8.


Just right of Hospital Corner. Route goes up behind the big flake, 20' right of the stellar clean corner.


Standard rack. You will want a #3 Camalot or equivalent, and I think we had the #4 with us as well (memory foggy on this...)


San Francisco
tallmark515   San Francisco
Definitely avoid the direct start to this route (grungy corner just to the right of Hospital Corner), it is dirty, mossy and uneventful.

Also, be careful with the second pitch of this route. I would recommend against belaying at the bolted anchors of Anesthesia or building a gear anchor at the ledge that supertopo recommends.

The bolted anchor is far out to the right and a 20ft traverse past a protruding arete is necessary to access the grungy .10b stemming section needed to access the money section above. Once above that sction, rope drag is bad and the belayer is out of view.

Building a gear anchor on the ledge (as supertopo suggests) would also be a mistake, most cracks are formed by small boulders sitting on the ledge and likely unsafe for gear.

I recommend that who ever does the first pitch, also climbs that .10b dihedral at the end of the end of p1 and belays from the smaller ledge above from a gear anchor.

...or do this in 3 pitches
-p1- First pitch of Anesthasia.
-p2- From bolted anchor belay, traverse out left, climb short .10b
dihedral (the one with the bushes growing out of the crack).
-p3)- Money pitch. Steep handcrack to the bolted anchor of
Hospital Corner.

The final money pitch was actually quite fun but so dirty that it took away from the enjoyment. It looks like no one has been on this route in 20 years. Aug 5, 2009
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
This route gets done all the time but does pick up some grunge. 1 star though? This thing is almost as good as hospital in my opinion.

And I got to ask... 3 pitches? Is that a joke? Aug 10, 2009
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
This is a diamond in the rough. An excellent 2nd pitch. We did the grungy first pitch, and I can't recommend it. Start up HC and traverse to the ledge below the Gomoke corner. This could get me shot, but I really think it should have a bolted anchor there. We used a blue alien and sketchy #3 camalot for the anchor, backed up with a nut behind a block.

Technical and fun fingers in corner, then stemming and chimneying up a hand crack. We actually enjoyed this pitch as much as HC, maybe more! Jul 18, 2010
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
3 pitches? Grungy? Dangerous? Are you kidding?

The first pitch is a pile and hard to protect. The better option is to climb the first pitch of Anesthesia (via good but hard to spot bolts), which is a pleasant 5.8 face with solid clean holds. From the anchor traverse left into the Gamoke keeping a careful eye for potential rope drag. Place high up in the dihedral, pull the crux and off you go. Done it a hundred times like this and no rope drag.

There is a little grass in the corner at the start, I wouldn't classify that as mungy...ever!

Definitely a high quality "sleeper" route of which the leap is so famous for. Jul 25, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
I think Mark has been whipped enough already, but I'd definitely only do this in two pitches.

Less aesthetic than Hospital Corner, sure, The Gamoke is still just as good and is certainly more burly. I found a fuller arsenal of technique is required, from thin fingers to overhanging hands, liebacks, and stemming.

If you haven't been on either, I'd do Hospital Corner and then rap to the start of The Gamoke and do the 2nd pitch since the approach pitch (a humdrum lead) is essentially the same for both. Aug 21, 2011
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
Do this in 2 pitches with a 70m. The first pitch is actually quite nice. Traverse over to the start of the money pitch before you build an anchor. A #2 and #4 protect the traverse well for your follower, you'll want a red C4 for your anchor (bring 3 if you want 2 for the money pitch but this isn't required). After you climb Gamaoke, you can take turns top roping the second pitch on Hospital before you rap for some full value climbing. I think Gamoke may be better than Hospital as it is more varied and has a little more spice. May 25, 2013
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
Great route, it felt less sustained than HC with more hand jams. However, we did a double rope rap from the top of the HC/Gamoke anchors and got the rope stuck on a large horn at the base of the Gamoke. 2 single raps eliminate this risk. Aug 12, 2013
Reno, NV
BruceB   Reno, NV
Pitch 2 is super fun. I think better than HC. It's more varied, more committing, overhung for a bit, and requires more technical finger jams and stemming. All for just a letter grade more!
Doubles from small finger to #3 worked great. A #4 was useful for the top section, although probably not essential.

We climbed to P2 via the first pitch of Anesthesia, which is reasonably fun although the first bolt is way up there - just as the climbing turns from 5.low to 5.7(ish). There's some nice 5.8 moves a few bolts higher.

Concerning the best place belay for P2: We did belay from the Anesthesia anchors, but that may not be the best place. The crux of this climb is the first 20 feet of the initial dihedral - technical finger crack with thin stemming. The first piece of pro (a small cam) goes in after about 5 feet of climbing. However, the Anesthesia belay is about 25 feet away and at about 60 degree to the side. So a fall on that piece is going to produce quite a bit of side loading which may dislodge the piece, and if you use a long runner so as not to have rope drag later on, you're still going to hit the ledge.
If 5.10b thin dihedral is close to your limit, I would recommend belaying at the base of the dihedral on a nice ledge. It doesn't mean adding a pitch, just extend your first pitch to get there. Aug 17, 2015
I almost got the FA rope solo of this route in 1977, simultaneous to Harrison and Smith's FA on Hospital corner. Did what is described as the dirty 1st pitch direct to the base of the crux corner where I belayed. Made it through the crux and was near the projecting horn in the handcrack when I decided to bail for lack of 2" to 3" pro, of which I brought only one each of Hexes to 3". Anyway a few weeks later I went back with doubles in the needed sizes to finish the project. I was miffed to see my anchor and high hex missing as I did the 2nd ascent. S & H sandbag rated it 5.8. I thought it was at least 5.9, but deferred to their rating in the 1980 green guidebook. Proves if you snooze you lose. Excellent route. Feb 17, 2016
Michael Dom  
Bring an 80 and do it in one pitch. Just extend all of your pieces and bring a double rack to 3. Leave the nuts at home. Sep 29, 2016
Berkeley, CA
DylanJK   Berkeley, CA
you can climb it in 1 pitch with a 70m rope. barely. Aug 21, 2017
Kristina Smith
Bridgeport, CA
Kristina Smith   Bridgeport, CA
We accessed via the first pitch of Anesthesia which is exciting, really fun 5.8 dike climbing! The first bolt is waaay up there! I did place some good gear half way between the ground and first bolt. Not sure how much good it would do, but made me feel better. I found the climbing between last bolt and belay also quite sporty.

Don't let all the talk of where to belay discourage you!! You will see the best option for you when you do it.

The $ pitch is soo fun and all there with great gear!! We both agreed difficulty was comparable to HC but Gamoke was more interesting! fingers, jamming, lieback, dikes, chimney, overhang... and just a little dirty. Just how I like it. ;) I Did use a #4 at the top but didn't need it. 3, #1s would have been useful, but not necessary.

Thanks for all the comments y'all! Might not have done it if not for all the positive reviews!! Sep 12, 2018