Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Harrison and Jay Smith, 1977
Page Views: 2,896 total · 17/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Dec 14, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

You can either do the same start as Hospital Corner, or start up a grungy corner just to the right of that. first pitch, 5.8. you could also start up the first pitch of Anesthesia (that sparsely, but adequately bolted slab just right of HC, 5.8) You can either build a gear belay on some blocks at the base of the huge flake, or do what we did, which was to build it on the p1 Anesthesia bolted belay, 10 feet to the right. This saves your hand-sized cams you need for higher on the route.

Pitch two starts by pulling up and in on a finger crack, into a shallow corner, 10b crux. Then, you pull up into the steeper hand crack behind a huge flake that is right of HC. The crack here is actually overhanging, and you can even do some chimney moves behind the flake. Good stemming as well. Finishes at the HC bolted anchor.

This is a very fun route. It is a little grungy since it doesn't see the traffic that HC does, but it is quality. If you can do HC, you can do this route.

Rap off. 70m rope necessary to get to HC p1 bolts, 2 60m ropes will get you to the ground in 1 rap.

Note: most guidebooks list this as 5.8. The crux is NOT 5.8.

Location

Just right of Hospital Corner. Route goes up behind the big flake, 20' right of the stellar clean corner.

Protection

Standard rack. You will want a #3 Camalot or equivalent, and I think we had the #4 with us as well (memory foggy on this...)

Photos