Type: Trad, 485 ft (147 m), 5 pitches
FA: Gene Drake, Jim Orey, 1972. FAA: B. Todd & Rick Sumner & John Taylor 1975
Page Views: 8,341 total · 39/month
Shared By: Salamanizer Ski on Oct 19, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

34 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route ascends the huge dihedral/arch on the far right side of the West Face below some very distinctive big roofs looming above. Climb dikes into a smooth chimney. Grovel your way up through the Yosemite like smooth chimney, fist cracks and awkward widths. There is a finger sized crack in there somewhere, so make sure you have a few pieces of gear for that. A two bolt belay awaits at the top of the first pitch. The second pitch climbs a wide fist/offwidth to a roof where you hand-traverse out of the corner to the left along the overhanging roof and around the corner.

It is possible to traverse the roofs to the right (5.10c wide) and finish via Third Stone From the Sun (5.10d+ offwidth) or another roof/bulging corner (5.11+) to the right of that. 

Protection Suggest change

Pro to 4".