Mountain Project Logo

Routes in West Wall

Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Breeze S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Magnum Force T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Third Stone From The Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vanishing Point T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 485 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Gene Drake, Jim Orey, 1972.
Page Views: 5,066 total, 37/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route ascends the huge dihedral/arch on the West Face.
Climb dikes into a smooth chimney. Higher, offwidth and fist lead past a bolt to a belay.
Climb offwidth to a roof and hand-traverse out of the corner.
Climb up to "Craven Image".

Protection

Pro to 4".
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Go left at the piton. Going right out the roofs is possible but much harder and you need very large gear. Aug 10, 2015
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
Are you supposed to escape left underneath the first roof (by the piton) or traverse right under the first roof, layback up the side of that roof and traverse right under the second roof? Aug 10, 2015
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
If you scrambled up to the base of the climb, the first pitch can be TRd or rapped with a 70m. Probably the first two pitches can be rapped in two with a 70m.

For one reason or another we only did the first pitch, but what a pitch it is. It felt like a bit of Yosemite at the Leap with some of the tastiest wide climbing I have climbed in Tahoe. It is a complete head scratcher this thing isn't as popular as Hospital Corner and the like. Jun 8, 2014
AndyBG  
First two pitches are fantastic! I would recommend 3 #4 C4s. One rap w/two 60m ropes will get you back to the base of the climb from the bolted P2 belay. Jun 22, 2013
An amazing route! Really fun chimney on the first pitch leads to a short but sweet fisty second pitch. If you bring 2 #3's and 2 #4's you'll feel really safe and secure. Jul 30, 2011
426
426  
Awesome route, I would maybe even take some larger gear these days!

If you like your fisty/liebacks then this is a must do for you...you can actually "see through" to the other side on part of this route.


Pillar belay is spectacular! Mar 8, 2007