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Routes in West Wall

Banana, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Anesthesia T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
April Fools T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arctic Breeze S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arrowroot T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bombs Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Captain Coconuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Craven Image T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crazy Daze T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dead Tree Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gamoke, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hospital Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jester, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lady Bug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Laugh, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Magnum Force T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Main Line T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slash, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Third Stone From The Sun T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vanishing Point T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 485 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Gene Drake, Jim Orey, 1972. FAA: B. Todd & Rick Sumner & John Taylor 1975
Page Views: 5,553 total · 38/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006 with updates from Trevor Vichas
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route ascends the huge dihedral/arch on the West Face.
Climb dikes into a smooth chimney. Higher, offwidth and fist lead past a bolt to a belay.
Climb offwidth to a roof and hand-traverse out of the corner.
Climb up to "Craven Image".

Protection

Pro to 4".
426
426  
Awesome route, I would maybe even take some larger gear these days!

If you like your fisty/liebacks then this is a must do for you...you can actually "see through" to the other side on part of this route.


Pillar belay is spectacular! Mar 8, 2007
An amazing route! Really fun chimney on the first pitch leads to a short but sweet fisty second pitch. If you bring 2 #3's and 2 #4's you'll feel really safe and secure. Jul 30, 2011
AndyBG  
First two pitches are fantastic! I would recommend 3 #4 C4s. One rap w/two 60m ropes will get you back to the base of the climb from the bolted P2 belay. Jun 22, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
If you scrambled up to the base of the climb, the first pitch can be TRd or rapped with a 70m.

For one reason or another we only did the first pitch, but what a pitch it is. It felt like a bit of Yosemite at the Leap with some of the tastiest wide climbing I have climbed in Tahoe. It is a complete head scratcher this thing isn't as popular as Hospital Corner and the like.

Edit: Since followed the 2nd pitch. Excellent! The traverse out of the corner is exhilarating. Jun 8, 2014
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
Are you supposed to escape left underneath the first roof (by the piton) or traverse right under the first roof, layback up the side of that roof and traverse right under the second roof? Aug 10, 2015
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Go left at the piton. Going right out the roofs is possible but much harder and you need very large gear. Aug 10, 2015
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
  5.10b
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
  5.10b
Excellent climb. Unique climbing for the Leap. Cool chimney followed by plenty of fist jamming.

3 #4 camalots are really nice to have for this one if it's near your limit. 2 #3s are also nice to have. No need for more than a single rack below #3.

I belayed at the bolts just to the left after turning the roof on P2. Not sure if that's the standard way to do it but it worked well. 1 short rap around the corner back to the 1st belay and then 1 rap with a 70 to the ground. Jul 2, 2018
RonC
Roseville, CA
 
RonC   Roseville, CA
 
Agree with previous comments - great route up a beautiful chimney/off width sections. A hidden gem. Was at my limit lead wise & could have used a fourth #4C4 for last section below 1st pitch belay anchors. Used a somewhat tippy #3 to protect it along with a small stopper placement on left side. So use your #4's wisely - save one for last section. No lines on this burly climb. Leave your packs at bottom of trail before heading up to base of climb. Sep 3, 2018

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