Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Greg Dexter, Jay Smith, 1977.
Page Views: 1,408 total · 10/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Mar 3, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

This is the crack to the right of "Main Lline".
Do the first moves of "Main Line", then move right, into the crack. The crux is above a small roof.

Protection

Pro to 1.5"

Photos

426
426  
I always felt the crux was the savage boulder problem (for 10b) at the very bottom....kinda like T-Wall, the "first 10 feet" don't seem to count... Mar 8, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Good route. It is a little crusty (but maybe because it's early in the season?) and my partner broke off a small dike while leading. Also, there is a very loose horn about 2/3 of the way up, just below the roof. It looked like it was rooted pretty well, but I don't think it would take too much to send it, bigger than a football. Take care. It is inviting, but easily avoided. I don't think it would change the grade if it gets trundled.

We didn't use any gear bigger than #1 camalot, doubles of small cams was nice. But, the anchor situation isn't the greatest, we used bigger cams for that up at the base of arctic breeze.

Opening boulder problem pretty delicate... Jun 4, 2007
Blitzo
  5.10b
Blitzo  
  5.10b
That thing has always been crusty, Dave. I thought it was pretty hard too! Aug 24, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
no doubt! Just did it again... still crusty and that bouldery start is still vicious. Got a cramp in my neck right after I did the mantle! Jul 10, 2011
Evan Riley
San Francisco, CA
  5.10c/d PG13
Evan Riley   San Francisco, CA
  5.10c/d PG13
This thing would be great if it was climbed/cleaned up more. Some gardening may be required. Boulder problem is tough, protects well with a blue and purp TCUs. Sep 8, 2013
Michael Dom  
 
Haha, sandbagged 10b but fun. The hardest part was the tiny crack at the beginning. I didn't see any anchors at the top so I made an anchor out of a .75 bd and an orange metolius. Sep 29, 2016