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Routes in Main Wall

Absolutely Billy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batmans Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Pool, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
R.I.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yankee Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Youthful Exuberance T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

This the largest formation at the Leap at 500ft. For a long day, you can link a route on the lower buttress to a multi-pitch climb on the main wall. The classic climbs on this wall include Corrugation Corner 5.7, Traveler Buttress 5.9, Hospital Corner 5.10a, and Tombstone Terror 5.10c. For information on getting to an Alcove where you can then climb the excellent climbs: 2nd pitch of "North Country", 2nd Pitch of "North Face", "Absolutely Brilliant", "Dragon Back" and a 5.9 Off Width See the Beta Picture below.
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Getting There

You can climb a route on the lower buttress or follow the trail along the right side of the buttress to the base.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
Note that "Main Wall" and "West Wall" climbs are located off the same continuous ledge system above the Lower Buttress, East Wall and Central Wall.

In terms of the hiking approach to Main/West Wall, note that once following the path up and right around the base of Lower Buttress, after 5-10 minutes the trail becomes less distinct and "social trail" forks exist which are at some points a bit loose and bushy. One of these forks stays right and skirts the Dear John Buttress all the way to the base of the right-most portion of West Wall. The other fork remains closer to Lower Buttress and involves a small bit of 3rd class boulder scrambling before turning back into a dirt trail that again forks almost as it reaches West Wall - the down and left-ward fork goes to Tombstone Ledge, while the path continuing upward goes to West Wall. If you're deeply bushwacking for more than a few steps, you're no longer on either path.

Either way, expect a bit of a steep slog relative to other Lover's Leap approaches. It's better done not in the smack middle of a hot day.

Once on the West Wall ledge looking directly up at rock, follow a path leftward (which initially descends a bit while still hugging the rock base) to reach Main Wall climbs.

Tombstone Ledge climbs are located off a smaller ledge system directly below the center-left portion of the Main Wall ledge. This ledge is a bit harder to find (it can also be approached via a separate trail that ascends from the right-most end of East/Central Wall). The following climbs start on Tombstone Ledge and NOT Main Wall proper:
- Epitaph
- R.I.P.
- Tombstone Terror
- Boot Hill
- Traveler Buttress
- Silly Willy Crack

Also, note that all of the following routes are located on a separate ledge ABOVE Main Wall, that is accessed via Stemmeister or the first pitch of North Face. Bring a 70m rope or a tag line to descend from these climbs if not topping out:
- North Face Route (pitches 2 and on)
- Absolutely Brilliant
- Dragon Back
- North Country

To descend from any climbs that top out West Wall or Main Wall (not all routes do - see individual route info for details), head climber's left from the top of the wall, more or less remaining on a trail that's near the cliff top and NOT back in the forest very far. This trail will eventually descend down to the top of East Wall, and continue left to join the East Wall descent back to the Pioneer Trail.

Have fun up there! Jul 22, 2017
John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
Mr Hummus: You will get sun around 1 pm Jun 30, 2014
Mr. Hummus
SLC, Utah
Mr. Hummus   SLC, Utah
What direction is the Main wall facing? I'll be there in mid July and I am sure we will be chasing shade. Just hoping to plan out what we will be able to climb in the shade and when. Thanks!! Jun 13, 2013

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