Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Paul Crawford, Paul Obanheim and Jay Smith, 1984
Page Views: 8,302 total · 56/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Description

Face climb to the right of Tombstone Terror. One of the best sport routes at the leap. Clean, steep and well protected. If follows a series of flakes, small edges and pinches up a nearly overhanging white wall. This route's FA was originally done with a couple bolts and pins. Yikes!

Protection

7 Draws

Photos

426
426  
Definitely a great route with unique moves. Well protected and fun!

Used to be 11a in the old white guide, could be harder if you are shorter... Mar 8, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.11
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.11
Wow! Powerful moves on steep rock. .11a? I bet this would be rated harder at some climbing areas... Jun 18, 2007
Michael Ybarra
on the road
 
Michael Ybarra   on the road
 
And at some places it would be rated easier. Oct 15, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.11
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.11
Yeah right. This thing isn't .10 anywhere in the country. Nov 13, 2008
Marc Squiddo
Mountain View, CA
Marc Squiddo   Mountain View, CA
yep....one hard 11a Apr 13, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.11a/b
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.11a/b
Either harder than .11a or very sustained .11a (or both), I can't tell. Either way, this is has got to be the finest face climb that I've done at the leap.

First 20 feet are unprotected with a bad landing. Once you clip the first bolt, the business starts and continues until you start dike hopping 3/4 of the way up the route. Crux is everything in between and involves some powerful flake pulling, mantling, liebacking and most importantly... lots of endurance. Jun 28, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.11
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.11
Boothill is the graveyard in Tombstone AZ, named such because Tombstone was a town 'where men died with their boots on.' Jul 15, 2009
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Fantastic and varied route!

Like most sport routes at the Leap, it favors taller climbers. At 6', I still had to make an extended reach through the right-facing flake section down lower, and still do a medium-sized deadpoint/one-point-on dyno to reach a jug out left after that part. There's some really cool arete bear-hugging/lieback bumping that gets you through the second crux, which again will be easier if you're on the taller end.

The cruxes felt to me like .11c relative to other granite sport areas I've climbed. Jul 22, 2017