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Routes in Main Wall

Absolutely Billy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batmans Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Pool, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
R.I.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yankee Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Youthful Exuberance T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Paul Crawford, Paul Obanheim and Jay Smith, 1984
Page Views: 7,868 total, 58/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Face climb to the right of Tombstone Terror. One of the best sport routes at the leap. Clean, steep and well protected. If follows a series of flakes, small edges and pinches up a nearly overhanging white wall. This route's FA was originally done with a couple bolts and pins. Yikes!

Protection

7 Draws
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
At 5'10" with a zero ape index, this route (just the little flake section) felt harder to me than Yankee Dog, Nirvana (both pitches), and Deadpool right next door. Sep 5, 2017
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Fantastic and varied route!

Like most sport routes at the Leap, it favors taller climbers. At 6', I still had to make an extended reach through the right-facing flake section down lower, and still do a medium-sized deadpoint/one-point-on dyno to reach a jug out left after that part. There's some really cool arete bear-hugging/lieback bumping that gets you through the second crux, which again will be easier if you're on the taller end.

The cruxes felt to me like .11c relative to other granite sport areas I've climbed. Jul 22, 2017
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.11
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.11
Boothill is the graveyard in Tombstone AZ, named such because Tombstone was a town 'where men died with their boots on.' Jul 15, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.11a/b
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.11a/b
Either harder than .11a or very sustained .11a (or both), I can't tell. Either way, this is has got to be the finest face climb that I've done at the leap.

First 20 feet are unprotected with a bad landing. Once you clip the first bolt, the business starts and continues until you start dike hopping 3/4 of the way up the route. Crux is everything in between and involves some powerful flake pulling, mantling, liebacking and most importantly... lots of endurance. Jun 28, 2009
squiddo Marc
Mountain View, CA
squiddo Marc   Mountain View, CA
yep....one hard 11a Apr 13, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.11
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.11
Yeah right. This thing isn't .10 anywhere in the country. Nov 13, 2008
Michael Ybarra
on the road
 
Michael Ybarra   on the road
 
And at some places it would be rated easier. Oct 15, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.11
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.11
Wow! Powerful moves on steep rock. .11a? I bet this would be rated harder at some climbing areas... Jun 18, 2007
426
426  
Definitely a great route with unique moves. Well protected and fun!

Used to be 11a in the old white guide, could be harder if you are shorter... Mar 8, 2007