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Routes in Main Wall

Absolutely Billy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batmans Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
R.I.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yankee Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Paul Obanheim, Brian Harrington, Chris Bay, 1985
Page Views: 579 total · 5/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Jul 13, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Epitaph... the true Tombstone Terror of Lover's Leap! This route starts up a crack right above the most prominent tombstone on Tombstone Ledge. Another 5.10c, this one is much different in character than the Terror. The Epitaph was the famous silver mine in Tombstone AZ, that funded the boom that extracted 25 million dollars in a few short years in the 1880s, when the Earp brothers were in town. The Epitaph was also the name of the local paper.

Start up the well protected crack to the base of the first roof and clip the fixed pin. Make the moves over the first roof, and follow the dikes and unlock the sequence over the next two roofs.

After the third lead bolt, you can traverse 30' left on 5.0 climbing and rap off a slung block, or else continue up and top out the route on grungy rock.

A well protected lead that is worth doing when on Tombstone Ledge.

Location [Suggest Change]

Tombstone ledge. 30 feet left of Tombstone Terror, 20 feet left of RIP. Start up the crack that is right above the highest tombstone.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Light rack to 2", 3 bolts, one fixed pin. All three 1/4" lead bolts pulled 7/09 and replaced with modern 3/8" stainless ASCA hardware.

Rappel off slung block 30' left on the ledge. Might want to take some cord to back it up, but it was ok as of 7/09.


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