Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,986 total · 46/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Pillar of Society is the first route you come to, as it is right at the top of the trail from the campground to the Lower Buttress. Look for the giant 3' diameter cobble.


first route at the top of the trail, 10' left of the Surrealistic Pillar direct.


sport bolted. There is usually a stick near the base to stick clip the first bolt.


Salt Lake
T_jones   Salt Lake
This route has brilliant moves and follows an unbelievable line of dikes. Don't let the small crimp crux down low discourage you from doing the deluxe upper half of this route Aug 20, 2010
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
You can easily set a TR by climbing over from the anchors of Surrealistic Pillar Direct. Perhaps 15-20 feet of 5.4 dikes.

Great climb! Sep 15, 2010
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
How in the heck do you start this thing?! I spent five minutes just trying to get off the ground! The handholds are there, but the feet start a few feet off the ground... May 13, 2012
The area's best face climb. I stick clipped the first bolt due to the blank start -- probably hard V4 getting to the mega-knob. Jan 28, 2013
Reno, nv
JaredV   Reno, nv
Any one have any beta for the section right after the big side pull jug after the 4th bolt? Jul 8, 2014
Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
The initial boulder problem is deffinetely in the V4 range maybe a tad harder or easier. If you can reach that first dikey rail off the start it eliminates that boulder problem. However all the way to the 4th bolt it felt like sustained hardness on tiny tiny stuff (12a). Cant really see how its still 12a adding on that boulder problem at the beginning to be honest. But I didn't send it so I have no room to complain Jul 14, 2014
apparently someone has recently chipped the start?? Sep 11, 2014
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
No chips at the start! The first move is definitely there! Just jump for it, grab the crimp and HANG ON! After watching my buddy go for an RP yesterday (with no success, unfortunately), I was inspired to give it a shot. The bottom really isn't too bad, the first move, albeit hard, is only a few feet off the ground, once you find yourself on the huge gray thing, you'd really have to blow it to fall. Clip is easily within reach and a huge rest, which is grand because the climbing is quite sustained after that. I definitely recommend giving this thing a shot. May 29, 2015
Vienna, Austria
scalparm   Vienna, Austria
Can someone give more beta on this so-called 5.4 traverse to the anchors from the Surrealistic Direct anchors? I've scoped it out a couple times after doing SP Direct and it looks sketchy as balls! A long, unprotected traverse on dirty, chossy-looking rock. Aug 23, 2016
Michael Dom  
Phenomenal route. This is a must do. Sep 4, 2016
Justin S
Justin S   CO
STICK CLIP BETA: You can one handed stick clip the first bolt while hanging to the huge grey blob if you're using a branch as we were. Highly recommended, the mantle is no gimme, and falling would be ankle breaking or worse. Aug 27, 2017
The hanger on the first bolt spins so if someone brings a wrench and tightens it, that would be great. Makes it much harder to stick clip it. Also, I suggest extending the branch with another stick and standing on the ground while stick clipping. Nov 27, 2017
The best sport route at the Leap?
Start either a jump to a crimper or a tight sequence coming in from right to left along the small dike.
Mantling the giant knob is harder than it looks as its slightly overhanging, and if led from the ground, quite scary.
After the crux move and once the good flake hold is obtained go right for a cool dyno to knob. If you go up and left from this point its painfully crimper and harder, adds a grade to the route and misses out on the cool knob dyno. Original line went up the right facing corner/flake at the top but now goes direct up brilliant moves with a a crimper/spoiler last move.
A TR can be obtained from a traverse from Suralistic Pillar, but it is a bit unerving as a break on the friable dike would mean a big, bad pendulum Mar 20, 2018