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Routes in Lower Buttress

A Boy and His ArĂȘte T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Black Opal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Farce T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
For Real Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillar of Society S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,137 total, 46/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Pillar of Society is the first route you come to, as it is right at the top of the trail from the campground to the Lower Buttress. Look for the giant 3' diameter cobble.

Location

first route at the top of the trail, 10' left of the Surrealistic Pillar direct.

Protection

sport bolted. There is usually a stick near the base to stick clip the first bolt.

Photos

The hanger on the first bolt spins so if someone brings a wrench and tightens it, that would be great. Makes it much harder to stick clip it. Also, I suggest extending the branch with another stick and standing on the ground while stick clipping. Nov 27, 2017
Justin Skaare
Boulder, CO
 
Justin Skaare   Boulder, CO
 
ClIPPING BETA: You can one handed stick clip the first bolt while hanging to the huge grey blob if you're using a branch as we were. Highly recommended, the mantle is no gimme, and falling would be ankle breaking or worse. Aug 27, 2017
Michael Dom  
 
Phenomenal route. This is a must do. Sep 4, 2016
scalparm
Vienna, Austria
scalparm   Vienna, Austria
Can someone give more beta on this so-called 5.4 traverse to the anchors from the Surrealistic Direct anchors? I've scoped it out a couple times after doing SP Direct and it looks sketchy as balls! A long, unprotected traverse on dirty, chossy-looking rock. Aug 23, 2016
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
No chips at the start! The first move is definitely there! Just jump for it, grab the crimp and HANG ON! After watching my buddy go for an RP yesterday (with no success, unfortunately), I was inspired to give it a shot. The bottom really isn't too bad, the first move, albeit hard, is only a few feet off the ground, once you find yourself on the huge gray thing, you'd really have to blow it to fall. Clip is easily within reach and a huge rest, which is grand because the climbing is quite sustained after that. I definitely recommend giving this thing a shot. May 29, 2015
mpech  
apparently someone has recently chipped the start?? Sep 11, 2014
Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
The initial boulder problem is deffinetely in the V4 range maybe a tad harder or easier. If you can reach that first dikey rail off the start it eliminates that boulder problem. However all the way to the 4th bolt it felt like sustained hardness on tiny tiny stuff (12a). Cant really see how its still 12a adding on that boulder problem at the beginning to be honest. But I didn't send it so I have no room to complain Jul 14, 2014
JaredV
Reno, nv
JaredV   Reno, nv
Any one have any beta for the section right after the big side pull jug after the 4th bolt? Jul 8, 2014
BrianWS
  5.12-
BrianWS  
  5.12-
The area's best face climb. I stick clipped the first bolt due to the blank start -- probably hard V4 getting to the mega-knob. Jan 28, 2013
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
How in the heck do you start this thing?! I spent five minutes just trying to get off the ground! The handholds are there, but the feet start a few feet off the ground... May 13, 2012
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
You can easily set a TR by climbing over from the anchors of Surrealistic Pillar Direct. Perhaps 15-20 feet of 5.4 dikes.

Great climb! Sep 15, 2010
T_jones
Salt Lake
T_jones   Salt Lake
This route has brilliant moves and follows an unbelievable line of dikes. Don't let the small crimp crux down low discourage you from doing the deluxe upper half of this route Aug 20, 2010