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Routes in Main Wall

Absolutely Billy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batmans Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Pool, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
R.I.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yankee Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Youthful Exuberance T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Steve Glotfelty, J. Arnold
Page Views: 5,626 total, 43/month
Shared By: 426 on Mar 6, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route is what Lovers Leap is all about, insane mantles and dikes galore. Some of the moves on this climb can be height dependent. (unless you have good technique)
Nice face/blunt arete. Tech your way up to the crux mantle a few bolts up, then enjoy fine dike hiking to the top.

Location

Just right of Corrugation Corner, follow the line of bolts up a face. Lower off or finish on Corrugation Corner (gear required).

Protection

Draws, open shuts at top.
Evan Wisheropp
  5.11a
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.11a
I agree with Guy H. The crux is wild! I tried it mantling from the on the left and right, either way I was 6" short of grabbing the dike from mantling off my fingertips (I'm 5'10"). I ended up using an imaginary sloper below the jug to help balance while I stood up to catch the dike. Wild! Jun 22, 2015
BrianWS
  5.11-
BrianWS  
  5.11-
Tough for the short. The crux can be done static for shorter climbers, it just requires a bit more finesse. Jan 28, 2013
Cimbing Ivy
bay area, CA
Cimbing Ivy   bay area, CA
Fantastic fun sport route on superb clean rock. No-hand mantling galore with lots of balancy high stepping. It is 11a if you're 6 feet or above (as for my partner), if you're under 5'8" like me, the cruxiest move on the climb is the dyno move with a heel-hook high stepping at shoulder height after the no-hand stand up mantle crux. That single dyno move for south of 6 feet climbers is at least 11 b/c to 12a height-dependent. Jul 27, 2012
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
At 5'9", I didn't find the crux to be the balancy .11a move at the 4th (?) bolt. The crux for me was higher, at the second to last bolt, where I had to dyno to get to the holds before the final mantle. This was the hardest individual move I did all day, and we were on Nirvana (.12a) later on in the day. Nov 7, 2010
Keenan Waeschle
Bozeman, MT
Keenan Waeschle   Bozeman, MT
sounds like I need to give this one a try, I'm 6'6" Feb 9, 2010
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.11a
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.11a
This is route is what Lovers Leap is all about; insane mantles and dikes galore.

The very distinguishable crux mid route involved mantling up on my fingertips, then a little hop from my fingertips to grab the jug rail inches above.

It should be noted that I am 6'4". Apr 2, 2009
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
A wild ride that should be added to everyone's cragging list on the Main Wall. The cruxes are well protected, but there are a few spacey runouts on 5.9 near the end of the climb. The crux is a full stand up mantle with no hands. It is very helpful to be over 6ft on this one. Oct 6, 2007