Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Steve Glotfelty, J. Arnold
Page Views: 6,167 total · 43/month
Shared By: 426 on Mar 6, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


71 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is what Lovers Leap is all about, insane mantles and dikes galore. Some of the moves on this climb can be height dependent. (unless you have good technique)
Nice face/blunt arete. Tech your way up to the crux mantle a few bolts up, then enjoy fine dike hiking to the top.

Location

Just right of Corrugation Corner, follow the line of bolts up a face. Lower off or finish on Corrugation Corner (gear required).

Protection

Draws, open shuts at top.

Photos

Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
A wild ride that should be added to everyone's cragging list on the Main Wall. The cruxes are well protected, but there are a few spacey runouts on 5.9 near the end of the climb. The crux is a full stand up mantle with no hands. It is very helpful to be over 6ft on this one. Oct 6, 2007
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.11a
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.11a
This is route is what Lovers Leap is all about; insane mantles and dikes galore.

The very distinguishable crux mid route involved mantling up on my fingertips, then a little hop from my fingertips to grab the jug rail inches above.

It should be noted that I am 6'4". Apr 2, 2009
Keenan Waeschle
Bozeman, MT
Keenan Waeschle   Bozeman, MT
sounds like I need to give this one a try, I'm 6'6" Feb 9, 2010
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
At 5'9", I didn't find the crux to be the balancy .11a move at the 4th (?) bolt. The crux for me was higher, at the second to last bolt, where I had to dyno to get to the holds before the final mantle. This was the hardest individual move I did all day, and we were on Nirvana (.12a) later on in the day. Nov 7, 2010
Cimbing Ivy
Reno-Tahoe
Cimbing Ivy   Reno-Tahoe
Fantastic fun sport route on superb clean rock. No-hand mantling galore with lots of balancy high stepping. It is 11a if you're 6 feet or above (as for my partner), if you're under 5'8" like me, the cruxiest move on the climb is the dyno move with a heel-hook high stepping at shoulder height after the no-hand stand up mantle crux. That single dyno move for south of 6 feet climbers is at least 11 b/c to 12a height-dependent. Jul 27, 2012
BrianWS
  5.11-
BrianWS  
  5.11-
Tough for the short. The crux can be done static for shorter climbers, it just requires a bit more finesse. Jan 28, 2013
Evan Wisheropp
  5.11a
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.11a
I agree with Guy H. The crux is wild! I tried it mantling from the on the left and right, either way I was 6" short of grabbing the dike from mantling off my fingertips (I'm 5'10"). I ended up using an imaginary sloper below the jug to help balance while I stood up to catch the dike. Wild! Jun 22, 2015