Description

Like all rocks in the Lover's Leap area, this rock is huge, and an awesome (mostly) trad rock containing over 25 multipitch routes. Climbing is, as usual, granite fun with excellent horizontal dikes everywhere.

One of the best things about this 350 foot tall slab is that it's the fastest to get to from the camping area, taking about 10 minutes from the parking lot. The base area is also very developed, the tiering that was put in by the locals obviosly took some time, and makes for an inadvertant crash landing a much safer prospect.

All routes decend off the rock on the right (west) side of the rock in a gully that has a switchbacky yet developed trail.

Climbing on the Lower Buttress ranges from slightly overhung, to slightly slabby, with large crack systems, knobs, and other features to help you on almost all routes.

Getting There

Approach time: 5 - 10 minutes.

From the parking lot, head left at the fork from the parking lot. Head gently uphill on the trail until 150 yards past the Monk boulder, which is the large 25 foot rock on the left side of the trail. You will see the Lower Buttress, and will find the trail heading back at a greater than 90 degree angle heading over a 3' hump and around a medium-sized tree. Head on this trail for about 150 yards, and you will be at the rock in front of one of few sport routes, which is known as A Boy and His Arete (5.10d).

18 Total Climbs

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Location: Lower Buttress Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 129
Farce (aka Novitiate's Delight)
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 485
Surrealistic Pillar
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 297
The Groove
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 233
Surrealistic Pillar Direct
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Blue Wind
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Hemorroids in Flight
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 94
Sinbad-Herbert
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
A Boy and His Arête
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 14
Beer Can Direct
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Black Pyre
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 8
Black Magic
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 43
Pillar of Society
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Farce (aka Novitiate's Deli…
 129
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Surrealistic Pillar
 485
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
The Groove
 297
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Surrealistic Pillar Direct
 233
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Blue Wind
 11
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hemorroids in Flight
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Sinbad-Herbert
 94
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
A Boy and His Arête
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Beer Can Direct
 14
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Black Pyre
 6
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Black Magic
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Pillar of Society
 43
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Buttress »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: North
Sunny Roughly 3pm to 7pm during high season
6am
8pm

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