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Routes in Lower Buttress

A Boy and His ArĂȘte T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Black Opal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Farce T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
For Real Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillar of Society S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: R. Cashner, D. Hatten, R. Sumner, 1979.
Page Views: 1,369 total, 10/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Begin at a tree where the Farce starts.
Climb past a bolt to a shallow jamcrack. follow this to an overhang with two bolts.
Climb over this overhang and up to a belay.
Scrambling leads to the top.

Protection

to 2", draws.

Photos

tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Despite its uninspiring appearance from the ground, this route was actually really fun. A few delicate moves protected by 2 bolts down low (on the slab) take you up a flared hand crack (can supplement second bolt with a high #2) to an interesting flared pod (and another bolt). Lieback the edge of the pod, clip another bolt, grab the mini-jug to the left, place a .4 or a .5 in the roof crack (or not), then throw for the perfect hand jams over the roof and cruise up the easy 5th class another 60ft to a natural belay (a few pieces of gear can be placed on your way up the crack). Top out and walk down (or keep going up).

All bolts are bomber. Jul 30, 2013
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10c
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10c
The two old bolts have been removed and replaced with modern 3/8" bolts. Sep 17, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10c
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10c
Did this 6/07. Very interesting route with a variety of moves on it. Starts same spot as the farce. you climb up to a leeper + buttonhead that actually protects a delicate move. Nothing else between you and the ground, so take care.

The roof crux is pretty physical, but takes awesome gear, so plug it quick and fire it.

Up above is easier climbing, but crack is wide/flarey and gear isn't great...

Also, I took a #3 camalot and placed it, and probably could have placed another. 4 bolts on the climb, 2 are good modern bolts, one is the leeper/buttonhead one, and there's one more old bolt. Jun 18, 2007