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Routes in Lower Buttress

A Boy and His ArĂȘte T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Black Opal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Farce T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
For Real Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillar of Society S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,969 total, 44/month
Shared By: Greg Gibson on Oct 4, 2006 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

If you idea of a good time is is Dike hike'n this is a great route. I personally didn't mind the crack line but didn't care a lot for the mantel moves over dikes for the sole reason of not being able to get a good rhythm going up a nice crack.

Location

To the left of the Farce about 20'.

Protection

Standard rack of nuts & cams. Don't remember any fixed bolts other than belay anchors.
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, California
  5.9
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, California
  5.9
Personally, I think the very first bouldering move (compared to an actual boulder) is at least V0/5.9. Make sure your follower can do this before you're 100 feet up. After that, 5.7+/5.8 on the toughest moves of the first pitch. Don't skip the second pitch! There's a super fun mantle (5.7?) right off the bat, and then really very little pro for the second pitch, but it's easy. Aug 3, 2015
Road
Stanton
  5.8
Road   Stanton
  5.8
my first trad lead. had a lot of fun. Couple balancy mantles but nothing too hard.

The second pitch wasn't much fun. The first move right off the belay was pretty big, felt like it wouldn't be hard to get a unsafe fall factor if you came off trying to stand. That being said the 3 of us did it no problem.

If I do it again I'll prob just rap off after pitch one Aug 1, 2015
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8+ PG13
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8+ PG13
The initial move off the ground is tricky (UK 5a) but a knee is useful for older, inflexible climbers like myself. The main groove is a bit repetitive with slippy layaway moves between rests. Alpine experience ( = always take the easiest line) encouraged me to move left then back right on P2, avoiding the mantle move altogether! Oct 3, 2014
Dan Mathews  
 
I thought the first 2 moves were particularly more difficult than the rest of the climb and harder than 5.8. As an East Coast climber it reminded me of the first few moves of Conns East Direct at Seneca. The climb was rated 5.6... except for the first two 5.8 moves :)

Don't let them intimidate you. The rest of the climb is easier and a lot of fun.

This was the first move of my first climb at the Leap, and I was really surprised when I almost came off there. Dec 30, 2013
Cimbing Ivy
bay area, CA
Cimbing Ivy   bay area, CA
this is a route for those who are into mantling galore: long with good rest, plenty of gear placement (P1) and more than one crux. i didn't do my homework before getting on it and wasn't thrilled. i also did this after leading Corrugation Corner so any climb would seem uneventful i guess.

the move off the ground is awkward but didn't find it the crux. i'm south of 5'8" so reaching for the good hand jam up high is not an option for me. did not layback it either. after much fiddling, i pulled the move by finger-locking the small flaring crack straight-in, smearing the key small knob to throw an insane right high-step into the shoulder-height pod.

gear beta spoiler alert: 0.75 camelots and down plus nuts. i placed one red camelot but you can go without it. Aug 28, 2013
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
  5.8 PG13
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
  5.8 PG13
Meh, I was not really taken by this route. Nothing spectacular. Didn't find the first 5.8 move difficult. Just put my foot in and jumped up and grabbed a hold. Go for it, you are not that far off the ground yet. Then comes a bunch of 5.7 that seemed like boring climbing to me. Linked this up with Traveller's Buttress so that made it more worth while. Jun 11, 2013
BrianWS
  5.8
BrianWS  
  5.8
P1 was the only really worth pitch. Kind of tricky getting off the ground, but very straight forward afterwards. Jan 28, 2013
bergbryce
California
 
bergbryce   California
 
(beta alert!) I'm 5'8" and if you find the foothold for the left foot on the face, the start is 5.8. I didn't find it the first time I pulled up into that slot.

There were 3 or 4 mantles on the first pitch that were way more heads up than anything on the 2nd pitch which seemed really casual.
This route was way better than I expected. Aug 22, 2011
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.8 PG13
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.8 PG13
I found this route pretty fun. I don't get all the griping about mantling--I got into a pretty good and easy rhythm of mantling on the dikes. Lots of no hands stances to place gear.

I guess if you're looking for a straight in crack climb, yeah, you'll be disappointed. I think you'll be disappointed by a lot of the routes at the Leap!

Don't let the second pitch intimidate you, yeah it's runout, but if you got through the first pitch OK then all the moves will be super easy for you. Good mental training for something a little spicier like Surrealistic Pillar. Jul 5, 2011
trying hard
Sierra East Side
  5.8 PG13
trying hard   Sierra East Side
  5.8 PG13
Fun moves, great free solo. Aug 23, 2010
rhyang
San Jose, CA
 
rhyang   San Jose, CA
 
I'm 5'10" and have a hard time with the first move -- for whatever reason I pretty much have to lieback it. Five years ago I followed it and had the damndest time until I did that.

When I led it today I reached up and placed a yellow (#2) C3 before leaving the ground and that gave me peace of mind enough to pull the lieback. YMMV Jun 7, 2010
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.8
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.8
First half of p1 has a lot of 5.8 moves, in between huge, hands-free rests. The crux 5.8 move is definitely off the ground and it is not that far away from a huge jug, 10 feet up.

Second pitch is definitely "R" rated, but the climbing is super easy 4th and 5th class and maybe one, 5.6'ish move just above the belay. Aug 6, 2009
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
5.8+
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
5.8+
Whoa, daniel, I am neither short nor whining. Wtf.

I realize now that c.i. and I are talking about different placements. Yes, I can reach the one he refers to, but it's not really high enough to keep you from hitting the rocks below, plus I wanted to put my fingers there, not gear. I'm referring to the #1 jam up higher, which is where my partner could put a cam (but I couldn't).

Tried the move unroped in my approach shoes the other day with a straight-on gaston off the pod, and it felt much easier than before, no laybacking required. I wasn't in as good shape two months ago (early days coming back from an injury that required a year off). However, the rating off the ground still remains a bit height dependent imo. Jul 24, 2009
daniel c
San Francisco, CA
  5.8
daniel c   San Francisco, CA
  5.8
Single 60 m rope just long enough to bail from the P1 bolts. Supertopo says the bolts are 120' off the deck which is probably not correct. I'd say closer to 98' as both ends of the rope barely make it to the ground.

Agree with other posts on the importance of placing a piece from the ground to protect the first two moves and that I often found myself lying back off the left side of the crack.

Bring a bunch of small pro. You'll need it.

BTW - I'm tired of all the short guy whining! Y'all will make it up just fine :) Jul 19, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.8
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.8
hmm, just did it again the other day. because of the sloping ground at the start, you can lean in from uphill and slot the cam if you wish. It was around chest height for me from up there. Jul 13, 2009
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
5.8+
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
5.8+
caughtinside wrote:However, if you're starting out doing tenuous smears, you missed a key foot on the face, that isn't height dependent. Also, if you're leading this route and nervous about the opening moves, you can preprotect it. You can place a small cam over your head while standing on the ground that protects the move.
Ah, yes, certainly I did get that key foothold (only way I could hold that layback position), but when you have to make 2-3 additional moves, it soon feels a bit tenuous.

As for pre-placing a cam over your head, no, you cannot do this if you cannot reach said placement; don't think I didn't try! My 6' partner was able to place it, however. Jul 1, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.8
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.8
Couple things about starting this route...

It may be that it is more difficult if you are short. It is one move of 5.8 for me at 5'10", then the rest of the climb is 5.7 or easier.

However, if you're starting out doing tenuous smears, you missed a key foot on the face, that isn't height dependent.

Also, if you're leading this route and nervous about the opening moves, you can preprotect it. I did this years ago in my beginner days. You can place a small cam over your head while standing on the ground that protects the move. Jun 19, 2009
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
5.8+
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
5.8+
The rating on this route seems a little bit dependent on height. The start was definitely easier for my 6' partner as he was able to make the initial move straight on and hit the big jam up high directly as he smeared up in one move, thus allowing him to put his foot in the giant pod with a secure hand jam. At 5'6", I had to do two tenuous smearing moves in a left layback position off the ground, shift my balance straight, then gaston the two slopey edges of the wide pod (effortful) in order to hike one foot up into it before I could stand up and reach that jam. Kinda hard! A spotter is a nice thing to have in such case.

The rest of the route is quite well protected. May 31, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
The first move is 10-something if you do the obvious and jam it. Fortunately, after some consultation with ground control, I figured out the easier way. I have some sympathy with the "dike and hike" comment above. Although I enjoyed the route, I found myself getting a little annoyed at having to do the same move over and over: feet and hands on big dike, but crack more or less useless and the right wall concave. I typically would lean way left off the crack, palm the left wall, smear the right wall, high step onto the high dike, and then struggle to rock onto it. The much easier second pitch is worth doing if only for the view of the main wall above. We had never been up there, and it was a gorgeous fall day. Sep 27, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.8
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.8
I don't think I'd call the pro on this pg13, it's pretty good. all the moves on p1 are protectable, and p2 is super easy (and still has some pro.)

Not as good as surrealistic pillar, but still a very fun climb. Jan 9, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A great route and a fun free-solo! Oct 18, 2006
Greg Gibson
Napa, Ca
 
Greg Gibson   Napa, Ca
 
This follows a crack/corner. There are pretty big dikes which you mantle. Some strectchy moves. Bolts at top of first pitch. Second pitch is short and real easy but little to no protection.

Gear up the Mid size c-4's Oct 4, 2006