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Routes in Lower Buttress

A Boy and His ArĂȘte T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Black Opal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Farce T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
For Real Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillar of Society S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 282 total, 2/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Black opal starts as a couple of low angle flaring cracks, that moves up to a steep bulge with three vertical slashes in it (crux) to lower angle climbing up higher. It is left of Blue Wind, and right of Hemrhoids in Flight.

Location

Part of the group of 4 climbs at the far right end of Lower Buttress. Identify it by the three vertical slashes on the bulge.

Protection

standard rack. Offset gear, particularly hb offset nuts, are VERY helpful, as the cracks flare the entire way. Good gear is a challenge, but you can get it.

Photos

Colin Brochard
San Francisco
  5.10c PG13
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
  5.10c PG13
Woah! I found this route to be super scary - had a hard time trusting my gear in those flaring cracks. Maybe offsets would have helped. Just after the slashes, I leaned out right and got a small cam in the next system over. Not super inspiring, but just enough mental pro to pull through the final slab crux! Oct 2, 2017
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Pro felt okay without nuts or offsets, but I had to work at it a little. I doubled up where I could and was more concerned with the gear walking in the flare than if it was good when I placed it. So, yeah, that kind of route. The first slash takes a #4 c4, if you want to rack the boat anchor. I found the crux to be just above the slashes. Cool, flaring crack workouts on this face.

The route top ropes perfectly with a 70m rope, so it's more like a 115' or so pitch length. Jul 11, 2017
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
Description is spot on. We didn't have that offset nut, and it made the crux quite a bit more serious. An offset cam would be worthless here, you want the offset nut, a standard BD nut like we had, was... not inspiring. With that and the two other key small cam placements above it, this sequencey and sustained crux pros just fine, much better than the obnoxiously flared nature it appears from the ground. This route should, but probably never will, get climbed more.

As a side note, with a 70m, you can TR the other routes in this area by setting up an anchor near the top where you will find decent pro, and adjusting your directionals to whatever route you want to climb. Apr 20, 2015