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Routes in Lower Buttress

A Boy and His ArĂȘte T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Black Opal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Farce T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
For Real Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillar of Society S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Harrison, Jay Smith
Page Views: 621 total, 5/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Wild Turkey! The last time I had a shot of this stuff I kept it down for about 30 second before the cauldron of my stomach boiled over and I filled a nearby pint glass with a foul brew.

Chances are if you're looking at this route on mp.com you've wandered by the lower buttress, seen those two pink poot slings hanging off that old pin and wondered 'what is that thing?' That thing is the seldom repeated Wild Turkey. Located just uphill from the much smoother Crown Royal is a shallow corner with the pin about 25' up.

Start up the dike face just right of the corner before working over left. Continue up to the pin and take a good at it before you push your chips into the pot. Look up... that giant knob is close... so close.

Attack the roof, gain the knob and pull up. By the way, that move is not 5.8. Continue up and get established on the dikey slab headwall above. Wind your way up, brushing lichen from dikes. At some point falling will not be an option. Eventually you will gain a series of right facing flakes which take some gear. Right below a large dike the third flake is a good spot to belay and takes a couple hand size cams, about 150' up.

The second pitch continues up easy runout face.

Rick Sumner's old green Tahoe Rock guide says this about the route: "Rack: webbing slings and one 2 1/2 chock. Climb up a groove to the right side of a large ceiling; then traverse left along the celing's lip until possible to face climb up left to a horn. Continue until out of rope, then belay. This route has less than marginal protection."

Location

just uphill from Crown Royal, and just downhill from the Groove. 15' left of the Groove. Look for the pin with the two pink slings. Those slings are at least 10 years old.

Protection

A fixed pin, a couple knob tie offs and a standard rack.

Photos

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Michael Dom
  5.9 R
Michael Dom  
  5.9 R
Funny route, I ended up wandering all over the place trying to figure out where to go. Dec 13, 2015
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
amazing route, E55c/6a for the UK conversion onsight, 5.8 my arse.
the first bit to the sling is unprotected E35b ish. The crux move around the overhang 6a.

The top is a moss covered death runout adventure on a poor old bolt. You can jump into the tree i was told by a local mentalist! Probably best to rap and clean the top section. Oct 25, 2012