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Routes in Lower Buttress

A Boy and His ArĂȘte T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Black Opal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Farce T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
For Real Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillar of Society S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,549 total, 34/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Sinbad-Herbert starts just right of Crud Gully if you're facing the rock. It's a great, steep handcrack on the left wall, that goes to some intermediate anchors 60' up. Going just to here is probably .10a or .10b. From the intermediate anchors, continue up the bolted face for another 120'. It is all bolted face climbing, with bolts right at hard moves, well protected. Excellent moves. This is a newer route, and the upper section is still a little 'green' but still excellent.

You need 2 60m ropes to descend, one 70m to reach the lower anchor, or you can traverse to the Groove anchor, or top it out at 5.6R.

Location

Just right of Crud Gully, about 30' beyond the .7 start to surrealistic pillar.

Protection

finger-hand sized cams for the crack, bolted upper face. Bolted anchor.
Michael Dom
  5.10
Michael Dom  
  5.10
I wasn't terribly impressed by the route. I am not saying it was bad, but in comparison to all of the other amazing climbs it is quite pale. Dec 13, 2015
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
For what it's worth, you can go straight up at the "pimple" hold without actually using it. It involves small sloping holds just slightly right of the nipple/pimple/pea, and a lot of one-legged pressing and balance. Sep 23, 2015
Alex Motal
  5.11a
Alex Motal  
  5.11a
Pitch one is a super fun, slightly overhanging hand crack that eats pro. Pitch two is a bit harder then pitch one. The crux of pitch 2 is around 11- if you use the "pea" sized "pimple" hold by the 3rd or 4th bolt. Given the chalk line, it seems like most people skirt around this move by traversing right for about 10-15 feet to avoid the direct crux. Going right drops the grade to 5.10. Be careful of loose rock after the first pitch. All and all, a great route. Sep 14, 2015
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Dylan, I approached it via the chossy gully to the left of the 1st pitch anchors. You go up about 10-15' where there are large dikes to traverse on the climb and go up a bit more to the first bolt, probably 15'-20' above the belay. I placed a #3 in the choss above the anchor for a jebus nut, but not sure how well that would have held. It's easy climbing, and that first bolt is probably where it is due to the exfoliating nature of the start. Fortunately, that is the only crap rock on the climb I can recall. Jun 18, 2015
DylanJK
Berkeley, CA
DylanJK   Berkeley, CA
can somebody describe where the 1st bolt is for p2? Both my partner and I lead from the ground, both to back off because we couldn't find the 1st bolt... Even worse, I've done this pitch before... Jun 15, 2015
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I found the nipple hold on the second pitch crux arousing but unnecessary to upward progress. Cool, technical climbing that should get done more often (judging by the ticks here). Leave your rack at the pitch one anchors, take your draws, and cast off. As noted, a 70m rope leaves plenty for a rap to the pitch one anchors. Jun 9, 2015
BrianWS
  5.10d
BrianWS  
  5.10d
P1 is awesome! P2 starts out chossy but becomes a well-protected, less than vertical dyke pulling face climb. Jan 28, 2013
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
 
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
 
The first pitch of this route is phenomenal. Outstanding steep hands climbers dream of with excellent stems from time to time (and I'm not a tall guy, 5'7) Sep 19, 2012
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10+
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10+
For those of very short statures, pitch 2 will be significantly harder than 10d. So bring your Lynn Hill skillz. Sep 20, 2010
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
 
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
 
Two words, delicious jams Jul 21, 2010
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
I did P2 today, a little dirty and rotten for 20 feet or so above the P1 chains, but pretty solid from there on out. Watch out for the loose flake near the first(?) bolt, it (now) has large "X"'s on it.

When making your way up to the first bolt from the P1 chains, go left into the gully, it's MUCH more secure than going right.

One typical dike crux (for the Leap), delicate and reachy .10+ 3/4 of the way up P2.

Safe to rap with one 70m rope to P1 chains. Jun 21, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Perfect Elbows? Sounds pretty slammer. You propose 5.8 then?

This climb can also be led just using the corner, without going into the perfect elbows crack on the left.

To begin the extension, or second pitch, there are two ways. From the anchor you can creep out right onto the face, over, up and back left a tad to the first lead bolt. A little spicy and poor rock quality.

A better choice is to just cruise up the crummy gully to the left then step right out onto the face next to the bolt. Still bad rock, but easy climbing.

Also, with regard to the reachy clips, this was put up on lead by a 5'6" climber! Nov 16, 2009
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10+
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10+
The "perfect hands" section up higher is more like "perfect elbows" for some of us! :) Jul 24, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
Couldn't figure out where the second pitch started, I looked around for bolts and chalk, but couldn't see anything except what appeared to be virgin rock.

Regardless, the first pitch is considered a lower buttress classic by many. While I agree that it's a good route overall, I do think that a .10b rating is an inflated grade if you use the wall to the right. I've done it both ways and I've been told by many people that the wall to the right is on. If this is true, I'd give this pitch 5.9 for taller climbers and maybe .10- for shorter climbers. Jun 28, 2009
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
At least a couple of the bolts on the upper face are a bit reachy to clip. I'm 6' and I remember needing to either lock off pretty low or even jump, quickdraw in hand, to clip a couple of them. Rock quality above the first-pitch belay is poor for about 20 or 30' and, although easy climbing, you wouldn't want to fall before the first bolt on that pitch--especially if onto your belayer. This is a very good reason to do the climb in one long 200' pitch. Aug 27, 2007