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Routes in Lower Buttress

A Boy and His ArĂȘte T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Black Opal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Farce T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
For Real Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillar of Society S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Lowe and Vives, 1969
Page Views: 11,620 total, 81/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a great starting pitch to Surrealistic Pillar. It can be easily TR'ed after leading the first 5.7 pitch to the right.

Follow a right-facing dihedral with a large hand crack. A combination of stemming and jamming will lead to the crux. There are a couple fixed pins near the crux.

Protection

Gear to 3"
Ryan Pfleger
Tahoe, CA
 
Ryan Pfleger   Tahoe, CA
 
Super fun! Maybe one of the best at the Leap? Oct 24, 2017
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
Superb line! Got tripped up for a bit at the widest part of the corner crack and ended up climbing the corner all the way up above the roof. Excited to go try traversing underneath next time! So far, my favorite at the Leap. Aug 26, 2017
Michael Dom
  5.10b
Michael Dom  
  5.10b
Ended up doing this route when a local suggested it. What a cool route to do at night! Dec 13, 2015
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
If you hit a piton, you have bypassed (I believe) what is the most popular option, which is to climb just under the roof, traverse right, and then pull the steepest moves into the #1 size hand crack. The left variation that bypasses this below-the-roof traverse is probably a skosh easier than the variation I outlined. But whatever floats your dingy. Nov 10, 2015
Pavel Burov
Russia
Pavel Burov   Russia
There is a cool bouldery move after the piton.

Beta warning!

Cool high stepping, dropping knee, and reach left high. The right side pull jug is well chalked, thus it seems to be a popular move.

Is there anybody to clarify things - is this move an "original" route or yet another variation (it is easier to traverse to the right just below this move)? Aug 17, 2015
calder davey  
 
Absolutely fantastic pitch of crack climbing. Went up the crack all the way to the mini roof, then directly over right to the next crack. One of my favorite climbs at the Leap. Must do! May 12, 2015
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
What is the actual route? I never traversed anywhere in my attempt, just stayed in the corner on the left and got stymied by a crazy mantel I didn't have the sand to pull. My partner went right just below the roof to pull it up into the tight hands crack. Apr 30, 2015
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
  5.10b
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
  5.10b
I don't think Chris Mac actually climbed this thing, cause he only gave it 4 of 5 stars in the SuperTaco. I simply cannot find the part of the route that deserves the one star deduction...

Most classic variation IMO is climbing the corner until a chalked dike and traversing right to the crack below the roof and pulling it to the chains. Apr 20, 2015
BrianWS
  5.9
BrianWS  
  5.9
Would be 5.10 without all the dykes and jugs in and around the crack. Ditto for the variation. Jan 28, 2013
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10b
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10b
Fun stemming and crack climbing at the bottom, tricky and steep off fingers crux to steep tight-hands crack.

Watch the rope drag when doing the traverse, extend your pieces.

Entering into the steep crack is definitely, no harder than .10b though. The rest of the crack above is probably .10a.

Jun 28, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
this is a fabulous crack pitch, a rarity at the leap! fun stemming start, thin traverse, roof pull to overhanging pumpy hands, what more can you ask for? If you like the hands section, do the first part of the sinbad herbert next. May 1, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Cool Route! Sep 8, 2006
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
What 10d roof? There is no way any of those variations (including yours) is any bit harder than 10b. You're right though, the way you explain it is the most obvious line. However, it is one of the three variations (of four) that most people do. In fact, it's the variation most people do when they lead the direct....because it's got the best pro. Jul 17, 2006
A really fun alternative is to combine the starting crack of the 10a variation to SP and then traverse on a dike just below the (10d?) roof of the variation. Good pro (blue Camalot - extend!) before making the traverse and good pro after before committing to the strenuous crux moves going through the roof. Beats the run-out 5.6 or so knob slinging of the 10d variation (in my book) and the traverse is really straightforward for those around 6' tall. Despite not being one of the 3 versions - I think this is the most obvious line of all. Jul 14, 2006