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> Lower Buttress
Surrealistic Pillar Direct [Suggest Change]
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 212
votes
Routes in Lower Buttress
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A Boy and His Arête T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Black Opal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Blue Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Farce T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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For Real Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pillar of Society S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft |
| FA: | Lowe and Vives, 1969 |
| Page Views: | 12,153 total · 81/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
In effect yearly from April 1- Sept. 30! Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure is in place at the center of the wall starting April 1 to September 30. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
If you require addition information contact the Eldorado National Forest at 530-622-5061.
Here's a map from 2009, but the same route closures generally apply every year (true through 2019 according to the latest order).
If you require addition information contact the Eldorado National Forest at 530-622-5061.
Here's a map from 2009, but the same route closures generally apply every year (true through 2019 according to the latest order).
Description [Suggest Change]
This is a great starting pitch to Surrealistic Pillar. It can be easily TR'ed after leading the first 5.7 pitch to the right.
Follow a right-facing dihedral with a large hand crack. A combination of stemming and jamming will lead to the crux. There are a couple fixed pins near the crux.
Follow a right-facing dihedral with a large hand crack. A combination of stemming and jamming will lead to the crux. There are a couple fixed pins near the crux.
Vacaville Ca.
Oakland CA
San Francisco
Watch the rope drag when doing the traverse, extend your pieces.
Entering into the steep crack is definitely, no harder than .10b though. The rest of the crack above is probably .10a.
Jun 28, 2009
Reno, NV
Most classic variation IMO is climbing the corner until a chalked dike and traversing right to the crack below the roof and pulling it to the chains. Apr 20, 2015
Salt Lake City, UT
Bishop
Russia
Beta warning!
Cool high stepping, dropping knee, and reach left high. The right side pull jug is well chalked, thus it seems to be a popular move.
Is there anybody to clarify things - is this move an "original" route or yet another variation (it is easier to traverse to the right just below this move)? Aug 17, 2015
Sacramento, CA
Sacramento, CA
North Lake Tahoe, CA
San Francisco, CA