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Routes in Lower Buttress

A Boy and His Arête T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Black Opal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Farce (aka Novitiate's Delight) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
For Real Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillar of Society S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Eric Gable & Petch Pietrolungo, 1996
Page Views: 661 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ryan Nevius on Sep 2, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An adventure climb, for sure. Climb the sustained, sometimes-clumbly face just to the right of the arête. Keep your head on when pulling on hollow flakes. At the first big roof, traverse to the left side of the arête (into the left-facing corner). Get a few good jams before traversing back right onto the face at a prominent horn on the arête. Clip a bolt and climb up the face on 5.6R territory before reaching a second roof. Again, traverse left over the arête and onto a slightly overhung face for a few moves (really, only a few, don't try climbing up the overhung face too far), at which point you swing BACK onto the face and make some easy moves to the chains.

Rap (barely, with rope stretch) with a 70m rope, or (probably a better idea) with two ropes.

Location

Starts on the right side of a 15' wide recess (Beer Can Alley), on the left side of Lower Buttress.

Protection

6 draws, singles from .5" to 2", long slings to keep the rope running smoothly.

Photos

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Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
So I came to Lower Buttress the other day to try some routes at LL for the first time, and while waiting for some parties to finish the classics decided to try A Boy and His Arete. This thing is definitely not 10d and probably best not to call a sport route. A few rock scars indicated that crucial holds may have broken and the 10-15 foot spacing of bolts and distance to the first bolt kept it spicy. I managed to get up about 5 or 6 bolts before deciding to lower. Just a heads up to anyone thinking there's a moderate sport route here... Jul 9, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
This route is a turd. Sorry, there I said it... but it's true. TURD!!! Sep 9, 2013
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Ha ha! I always liked this one. Often chalk free. Sep 13, 2013
Eric Gabel
  5.10c/d
Eric Gabel  
  5.10c/d
Sounds like somebody had a bad day. Only heard positive feedback on this route until now Chad.Too bad. It was done ground up over three years. If you are on crumbly holds out right, you should go back left to the arête, were the route goes(on the arête). I hope every one else enjoys this route. Good moves, good lead, in my opinion. There is a second pitch too if it's not to obscure for you? Probably not for the faint of heart though. Glad you liked it caught inside. Sep 17, 2013
Definately not a turd, but I almost laid one when I lead it onsight with zero beta!
This is a strange, weird but very good route. I first tried it when it was very new. Perhaps first onsight? I had my older sister from England visiting who had just learned to climb. I had no idea on the gear and found myself way up above my last piece going the wrong way and looking at a bad, long fall if the one piece of gear held and an unthinkable fall if it pulled. This with a brand new barely competant belayer! A memorable and very frightening experience. I have since gone back and lead it several times.
Start up left side of the arete and swing around onto the face. Climb continuous excellent steep face for about 40+ feet past just enough bolts. Some holds feel tenuous and even weight distribution is helpful. Move left and seemingly off the route into the left facing corner and climb a 5.8 handcrack for 15 feet. Now pull back onto the arete and back around onto the face and climb a long way to the roof on easy ground with little to no pro. At this roof, at the point of the arete, place as much gear as you can. Climb left around the corner again. Now you get to the second difficulties. Here the wall is a series of flared, insecure, gently overhanging cracks that bekon but provide only false hope. Now look right across the 5 foot roof at an improbable hand traverse. Place what you can and commit. Pull around onto the face once more and easy moves to the top. I think a 70m gets you to the ground otherwise its double rope rap.
An extremely varied and quite challenging outing. Definately not a typical Leap dike hike.
Don't bring your newbie sister to belay!
I think the key gear is a yellow or red alien before the upper crux section Mar 20, 2018
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Yeah, I think I went right at the upper roof, after the long runout, and pulled the roof in a shallow corner. I may have inadvertently traversed onto Piece of Mind. Mar 21, 2018
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
Ok, maybe everything around its a turd and the thing is just hard to follow without veering off into it ;)
I just remember powdery lichen, crispy lichen, grainy granite and ants... lots of ants!
Suppose now I'll have to go back there and get on it again. Ya'll better not be pullin' my slings. Apr 2, 2018

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