Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Eric Gable & Petch Pietrolungo, 1996
Page Views: 1,228 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ryan Nevius on Sep 2, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Caldor Fire closures, August - September 2021 Details

Description

An adventure climb, for sure. Climb the sustained, sometimes-clumbly face just to the right of the arête. Keep your head on when pulling on hollow flakes. At the first big roof, traverse to the left side of the arête (into the left-facing corner). Get a few good jams before traversing back right onto the face at a prominent horn on the arête. Clip a bolt and climb up the face on 5.6R territory before reaching a second roof. Again, traverse left over the arête and onto a slightly overhung face for a few moves (really, only a few, don't try climbing up the overhung face too far), at which point you swing BACK onto the face and make some easy moves to the chains.

Rap (barely, with rope stretch) with a 70m rope, or (probably a better idea) with two ropes.

Location

Starts on the right side of a 15' wide recess (Beer Can Alley), on the left side of Lower Buttress.

Protection

6 draws, singles from .5" to 2", long slings to keep the rope running smoothly.

Photos

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