Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 397 total · 3/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Novitiate's Nightmare is a variation of The Farce, with a direct start and finish. To start, begin 15' above the groove, in the alcove below the large boulder. You can see the crack running all the way from the base to the top of lower buttress, splitting a 3' roof 3/4 of the way up. There is a .8 move just above the ground, (listed as the 5.6 direct start to the Farce in the guide) and pulling the roof is a bouldery .9. Both moves are well protected, and the rest of the route is much easier.

The roof is a fun move, and the route is worthwhile if you're trying to get up to Main wall and surrealistic and the groove have traffic.

You can do this in one long pitch with a 60m rope.


Just right of The Groove if you're facing the rock, in the alcove formed by the rock and the large boulder.


standard rack, to #3 camalot.


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