Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Petch
Page Views: 316 total · 2/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This route starts up thin dikes on the face 25' right of Sinbad-Herbert. A few bolts to the roof crux, pull the roof and continue on .8 climbing to the anchor, which is shared with the Sinbad-Herbert. To descend, you need 2 60m ropes to rap, 1 70m to rap to the SH intermediate anchor, or you can traverse to the Groove anchor or top it out at 5.6R.

Location

40' right of crud gully, 25' right of Sinbad Herbert. Continue up another 30' or so to get to the Groove.

Protection

8 or 9 lead bolts plus an optional knob tieoff to a two bolt anchor. Please note this should not be considered a sport climb.

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tallmark515
San Francisco
 
tallmark515   San Francisco
 
2 words, choss pile. This route is unsafe and should not have been bolted. A hold (mandatory rotten flake above the bolt) blew out on my partner while pulling the roof and sent him airborne. Another hold blew out on me. Jun 21, 2010
ShaunG Gregg
SF, CA
 
ShaunG Gregg   SF, CA
 
Flakes over the roof are coming off. Avoid unless you want some excitement. Jun 21, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10c
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10c
My bad fellas, I shouldn't have steered you to this one. For some reason I thought you looked like you might know how to climb and could handle a route that hasn't been buffed out by thousands of ascents. Thanks for doing your part to clean it up though, and steer clear of the obscurities and the green routes in the future and you'll be fine. Jun 23, 2010
Ryan Kelly
work.
Ryan Kelly   work.
That Caughtinside guy is a real jerk! Jun 23, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
One star for Crown Royal? Blasphemy! Sep 3, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10c
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10c
Went back and did this one again last week, I was curious to see how Mark and Shaun's cleaning efforts changed the climbing.

I'm pleased to report that the route climbs great, the holds may be bigger now. There is a big orange scar up and left of the crux, but the crux goes on big sidepulls and flakes.

Remember, climbing loose rock is a skill. Be deliberate, be delicate, pull down not out, and if you don't like to climb choss stick to the routes in the supertopo guide. Aug 13, 2011
BrianWS
  5.10+ PG13
BrianWS  
  5.10+ PG13
Good route with fun movement throughout. Neat roof crux followed by fun dyke hiking with well spaced bolts above. Not nearly as height dependent and feels much easier then the 2nd pitch of S. Herbert.
The rock looks fragile under the roof but is surprisingly solid -- the rock just above requires caution, though. Tread lightly, tap the flakes, and put a helmet on your belay. May 16, 2013
A great route that is a bit scary at the bottom (only because of potential for a crimper to break and a near groundfall) The crux is super fun and the upper section spaced out enough to give thought.
All routes with less than 200+ ascents at the Leap are continuing to change. Climbing at the Leap on anything but a trade route requires careful judgement at every move.
"Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end.” Mar 20, 2018