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Routes in Lower Buttress

A Boy and His ArĂȘte T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Black Opal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Wind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Farce T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
For Real Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pillar of Society S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,163 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ryan Nevius on Sep 2, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The height of the first bolt and the near-groundfall potential while clipping the second bolt keep many people off this climb; it shouldn't. After clipping the second bolt, clip the third, fire the crux, and enjoy a well-protected climb on horizontal dikes. A final, thin crux comes after the last bolt and before the anchor.

Location

On the left side of Lower Buttress. The climb starts just to the right of a big fallen block that is propped up against the buttress.

Protection

10 draws.

Photos

Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
 
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
 
This thing is no worse than Labor of Love. Pretty fun dike hiking but as always, there is a fine line between prudence and stupidity. Sep 9, 2013
calder davey
Bishop
  5.11 PG13
calder davey   Bishop
  5.11 PG13
Thought this route was very hard for the grade.. was whipping all over the place! Long hike over many a dike.. May 16, 2015
bob branscomb
Lander, WY
bob branscomb   Lander, WY
On-sighted this 2 or 3 years ago...thought it was quite good...lotsa bolts so never felt really out there...nice bit of dancing on it...some good rests before hard sections...have to be mindful to the first bolt; a bit slippery and thin but I have never possessed a stick clip and have no intention of EVER getting one. Jun 28, 2016
Vicki Schwantes
Sacramento, CA
Vicki Schwantes   Sacramento, CA  
I'm 5'7'' and this was doable, but very reachy. I was shut down going to the anchor due to the no hands mantle and not being psyched on the fall potential. Someone recently told me a hold broke off years ago. Yes? We ended up lassoing the anchor to retrieve our gear. Sep 2, 2016
Really enjoyable route but the second bolt is stupidly placed making for a ground fall potential. The top is hard and almost no hands while staring at the anchor so close yet so far. Crux is low down and can be done 2 different ways both about 11a/b. Not dangerous at the top but your aware of having 80+ feet of rope out and the inevitable length of fall.
In spring can walk up snow drifts to the first bolt! Mar 20, 2018

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