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Absolutely Billy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Absolutely Brilliant S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Batmans Nightmare T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blue Cab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boot Hill S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cheap Shot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clown Car T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Corrugation Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crash Landing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Town Traffic T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Pool, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dragon Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eeyore's Enigma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epitaph T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freak Show T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
North Country T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power Lust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Purple Haze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
R.I.P. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silly Willy Crack T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stem Meister T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thunder Struck T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tombstone Terror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Traveler Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under The Big Top T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wall Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yankee Dog T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Youthful Exuberance T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: K. Edsburg et al., 1960's
Page Views: 60,403 total, 447/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Oct 11, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A varied four-pitch climb that goes to the highest point on the Leap. Follows the huge right facing corner just to the right of Traveler's Buttress. First pitch is in the corner. The second pitch sneaks out on the left face leading to the base of a chimney. The third pitch climbs the chimney, traverses 5.7 past a fixed piton, and then hops on a beautiful exposed arete. The fourth pitch is basic and can be avoided with a 60m rope.

Protection

Cams .5"-3"; Nuts 1 set.

Photos

Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.7
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.7
Fantastic climb! Linked this after Surrealistic Pillar to avoid the hike, wouldn't have done it any other way. Climbed it in 3 pitches, running out the top. The final mantel at the top was slightly precarious, the toughest move of the runout but there's miscellaneous places for slings. Bring some long cord or small cams for the top anchor.

"Skipped" the beach whale move by traversing left along the ledge via a dyke and performing a more standard mantel 6 feet over.

The piton can be backed up with a perfect DMM size 2 nut.
I didn't know to traverse right and did the more direct variation. Pro wasn't amazing so it felt a bit spicy, would call it maybe 5.8 PG. Still, even off route, this line deserved all 4 stars! Get on it! Aug 26, 2017
David S.
San Francisco, CA
 
David S.   San Francisco, CA
 
Lost a .3 X4 on the 3rd pitch on Saturday, June 24 due some thoughtless overcamming. My partner talked to the party behind us to ask them to give the cam a shot-- if you are them and you got it out, please DM me and I'll spot you a beer or three for your decamming troubles (and the .3). Thanks!

Great route! The lines are long on the weekend, but the rock quality and the exposure are world class. Jun 28, 2017
Joshing  
I was at the top of pitch 2, chimneying up when my aging harness decided that my gear loop shouldn't be a loop anymore... I watched as 2 offset x4s (0.1/0.2), a yellow Metolius, and a BD #2 slid down the chimney into the abyss. If anyone happens to find these, could you email me? I would love to pay you to give them back to me. Jun 5, 2017
John Lim  
 
David and Jahn from New Zealand who climbed on 8/28/2016 - if you happen to stop by this page, message me so I can send you your photo!

As for pitch 2, a #0.1 X4 fit in a tiny crack horizontally after the piton. Pitch 3, was able to protect after the chimney with a #3 cam extended with a double length sling. Aug 29, 2016
GilaShot
Western Antarctic, New Engl…
 
GilaShot   Western Antarctic, New Engl…
 
I put a #4 in at the top of the chimney on pitch 3. It was bomber, and having it under the manky piton on the traverse sure was nice. Aug 23, 2016
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Wow - so fun. Every pitch is good. We did it in three pitches, a 60m just makes the top from the belay. Happy I saved a #2 and #3 camalot for the belay atop pitch 2. The are excellent small nuts (HB Offsets) right at the manky pin on P3. That pin isn't worth anything. I agree that the arete on P2 feels a bit sporty. There is definitely gear, but not everywhere you want it. Oct 13, 2015
Amazing route with easy climbing and great gear. My first time at the Leap and this route was incredible! Pitch 3 was the money pitch for me: chimney, traverse, jugs, occasional jam if you want it, what else can you ask for? It was especially awesome when you break out of the dihedral and onto the face! Incredible exposure and super easy/fun climbing.

The only place I didn't feel it was well protected was the P2 arete. You have a rusty piton at the bottom, and a rusty piton near the top. I found a spot for a small/med cam (0.5/0.75?) about 10ft above the first piton, but it was not an ideal placement in the slightest. I was also pretty run out getting to the first piton on the arete. Maybe I wasn't looking close enough for pro options, but I would say the key to this 30/40 ft section is don't fall. The pitons on this route fail to inspire any level of confidence. The arete is exposed and vertical but super easy so it is really just a head game.

If anyone else feels they protected this section well I'd be glad to hear your beta as a reference for next time. Sep 28, 2015
Awesome climb! The easiest 5.7 I ever climbed. Gear is iffy in a couple of spots on the second and third pitches Sep 26, 2015
Jeff Sawicki
Rocklin
 
Jeff Sawicki   Rocklin
 
Just did this climb yesterday. The description in the book is right about the exposed face on the third pitch and it does draw the rope out to the very very end. We had to wait for two other groups in front of us, but we were slow anyways so it worked out. Great climb! Aug 1, 2015
Damienn
nevada city, ca
Damienn   nevada city, ca
Has anyone stuck to the corner instead if going out to the chimney and face traverse? My memory is a little hazy as to whether or not this is possible and how difficult it would be. Jul 20, 2015
brucelacroix
Portland, OR.
 
brucelacroix   Portland, OR.
 
Did Surrealistic Pillar in the morning and Corrugation Corner in the afternoon. A great link-up for 5.7 climbers. The last pitch is a rope stretcher. Jul 2, 2015
Kyle Marks
  5.7
Kyle Marks  
  5.7
This is such an amazing climb with easy, but steep, 5.7 face climbing. A lot of great variety, exposure, and features! There are plenty of places to place good pro and 2-3 pitons to clip on each pitch (if you decide to trust your life on them). We used them because why not? Free protection. Mar 23, 2015
TLob
 
TLob  
 
As all the other posts have said, this is a really great climb!

For anyone who has been reading the Supertopo beta on this climb don't be discouraged. Words like "terrifying" and "most intimidating 5.7 anywhere" are way off base in my opinion. If you are a confident 5.7/5.8 trad climber this is a must do. Well protected jug fest for most of the way with a few small run outs on reasonable 5.7 terrain. Get out there and climb this classic! Jul 2, 2014
Bianca Rich
Salt Lake City, Utah
Bianca Rich   Salt Lake City, Utah
Link this climb up with Surrealistic Pillar for a great day of climbing. This is a MUST do if your in the area! Jun 22, 2014
Christian Cota
Arcata, CA
 
Christian Cota   Arcata, CA
 
A great line.. first i've ever done at the leap! I would recommend bringing a 00 cam to back up the manky piton for the traverse. a stellar route! do it! Jun 4, 2014
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.7
I was determined to not do the beached whale move...I failed miserably. It must be done.

The traverse out of the chimney (start of 3rd pitch) was the most terrifying to me. Maybe it's b/c by the time you're traversing you're nearly 500-600ft up.

Next time, I'll link it up with Surrealistic Pillar though! Great introduction and 1st climb at the Leap though! I was definitely spoiled. Jul 16, 2013
Ted Sumers  
 
i would mention that the p3 traverse goes right after clipping the pin-- my partner and i found this confusing and almost went directly up/left before a friendly party behind us offered some beta!

...do this route! Jun 3, 2013
Anthony Baraff
Paris, France
 
Anthony Baraff   Paris, France
 
Has anyone intentionally or unintentionally done the 5.8 P3 variation listed in the super-topo guide. Instead of traversing right at the piton after escaping the chimney. I accidentally continued straight up the crack after accidentally leaving the guidebook in the car. Super-topo calls it "a more sparsely protected variation", but I think it was still G/PG. It's a mix of face holds, hand jams and off-width feet. Definitely keeps your attention. My only complaint is that I lost my C4 #2 when it came unclipped from my harness while I was scumming my right hip up the outside of an off-width section of the crack. Aug 22, 2012
Tradiban  
 
Oh yea, so good. Some notes:

-3 pitches, not 4.
-Near the top of the first pitch make sure to go right on a slanting crack.
-The belly flop at the end of the 2nd pitch is easy if you use a nice notch for the left foot.
-The ring piton for the 3rd pitch traverse is shit, jug haul after the traverse to the top. Aug 21, 2012
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
This is as good as 5.7 gets. Jul 7, 2012
Simply unforgettable. The traverse after the chimney start on the 3rd pitch is definitely the most exposed and scariest part. Dec 31, 2011
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
I expected this route to be the highlight of our long weekend at (and my first visit to) the Leap.

I finished the route knowing it was one of the very best climbs I've ever done. If you're not grinning ear to ear on this thing from start to finish, you may as well hang it up. There aren't enough superlatives to describe how awesome this climb is. Suffice it to say that every pitch is 5-stars. Nearly every move on every pitch is five-stars for that matter.

On a beautiful 70 degree fall weekday, we had a party ahead of us and nobody behind us, and we didn't even get up early.

We thought we'd outsmart the crowds by doing Corrugation first, then coming back down to do Surrealistic Pillar. It worked (we didn't wait a second for anyone) but Surrealistic Pillar was anticlimactic after the Corner, so I wouldn't recommend that strategy, even if it means waiting in line for the Corner later.

Make the trip to the Leap if only to do this route. Oct 16, 2011
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.7
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.7
If you want to back up (or just avoid using) the fixed pin that protects the beached whale move on P2, there's a great nut placement just above and to the left of it that protects the move really well.

DO THIS ROUTE! So much fun. Jul 12, 2011
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A total classic! I like the belly roll mantle at the top of the second pitch. Aug 24, 2010
Joe Ludlow  
 
Pitch 1: Follow the crack. Easy, well protected, sustained 5.6 with one semi-bouldery cruxy move on it. Exit the crack to the left past the rough then traverse to the right to an open belay spot.

Pitch 2: Beautiful exposed arete! Savor it! Beached whale move onto the belay station was "interesting" heh. I tried to do it with a bit of grace, and failed miserably, heh.

Pitch 3: Very easy chimney followed by a very scary airy traverse! IMO the traverse was the crux of the entire climb.

All-in-all a magnificent very stout 5.7. Perhaps one of the best 5.7's you'll ever do. Jun 9, 2010
Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
 
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
 
I havent done many climbs at Lover's Leap, but this was definetely my favorite! There is a great variety of moves and rock type, coupled with fun exposure. We were not even that early (maybe 8) in mid august, and had no wait, and finished the climb well within the time when it is still cool and comfortable. Dont let posts about crowds stop you from this great climb. Aug 20, 2009
100% worthwhile. Fun, long, not too scary, beautiful location.

I did this in 3 pitches with a 60m. The arete on the 2nd pitch seemed to be the crux for me. Not unreasonably hard, but exposed and true climbing.

Don't miss the fixed pin before beaching yourself on the ledge for the second belay of you'll be looking at a run out fall on a small nut while trying to shamu your way up some greasy grovelly mantel. When the guy on the ledge pointed out the pin to me after the move, I was annoyed.

Anyway, good pro and exciting climbing make this really awesome. Mar 6, 2008
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
Free Super Topo: supertopo.com/topos/corruga… Nov 29, 2007